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LIGHT QUESTION (WATTS)

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Evilgoat:
Sorry if I've missed a trick here, but you want your spots to flash?

landroverkeith:
well minty in my experiance and i have plenty...........

if theres a small fire in the engine bay its not enough.... lol but if the lights work then all is well  :roll:

minty:
history lesson
its for grass hopper the santa pod security vehical it had x2 front spots that use to wig-wag and then it was decided it should have a roof bar with spots on then when that was done it was decided thay to should be add to the flashing wig wag :evil:  so ive spent the larst month cutting, weilding, wireing, curesing, and now the flipping relay whent pop because thay messed around with the switchs some im now struggerling to find one that will cope with wots needed :evil:

Evilgoat:
you might struggle, they arent meant for that.

secondary realys may help though. Wire the relay in place of the lamps then wire the lamps through the realay. You may need a ballast resistor to make it flash right though.

hrox:
give you a hint.    lights measured in watts.   relays measured in amps. so heres the math


3 x 55watt = 165watt
Voltage = 12v
Amps = watts \ voltage. so in this case 160 \ 12 = 12.75 amps

although from your 1st post does that mean you have 6 x 55watt spots in 2 sets of 3? if so then double the ampage so 25.5 amps.   most standard light wireing relays are 30a but its the wireing that will let you down and burn out.   would suggest 2 relays and 2 differnet runs of wire per side this way you can keep to 15amp cable which is cheaper than trying to find 30 amp cable.  you can wire the switch posative cable from the switch to both relays using just one amp cable as its about 1 amp that will be running across the swithch and therefore wont burn out.


hope that helps althougth reading it back dont really make much sence but then im half cut.   :)

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