Vehicle & Technical > Discovery

Suspension suggestions

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Ja1983:
I bow and salute your CAD skills!!

i think the confusion here is in the fact that yes, if you grab a pencil at each end with a hand, and move one, they move relatively the same, however, the arms are also attached, creating a funny kind of polygon...

think in the line of two pencils perhaps, or similarly the action on an excavator arm...

...hope that helps..

think maybe a suspension guide (like the tyre one) would help

2" lift, road handling = "***" springs, "***" shocks, "yes/no arms"
2" lift, max articulation = "
std height, max articulation =
etc...

 :arrow:

Lyndsey731:
I too bow to your skills (and superior knowledge) and appreciate the effort taken in explaining yourself

Thanks

Gav

clbarclay:
I'm sure the CAD skills make up for the lack of word skills.


A guide may be a useful, but there are just so many vraiabels with suspension mods (the tyre one kept it nice and simple by only changing the tyre each time) that I dought it work work quite so well.

Maby a better approach would be take each item/modfication as an individal and explain what it does, how it does it, advatages/disadvantages and how to use/what to use it with it for best effect. Or something along those lines anyway.

SnakeLogic:
That sounds like a fine idea!  Any volunteers?  

Here in Japan, the only suspension modifications I've seen on Land Rovers is a somewhat popular 2" lift (springs only).  As not too many (read:almost no) Land Rover owners actually venture off the pavement here, it is nearly impossible to get reliable information.  

For me, the Mud Club was a Godsend.  3 cheers for you guys!

rollazuki:
The upper A frame on the rear of the landrover is shorter than the lower radius arms. As the distance between chassis and axle increases(as in fitting a lift kit) then the diff tends to end up pointing more nose down. The ONLY ways to correct this are:
1) fit a longer A frame(equipe suspension anyone)
2) fit a shorter lower radius arm(the crakned one is slightly shorter)

These will restore UJ angles(remember UJ flange faces must ideally be parallel to each other). The downside is that the axle will be pulled slightly foreward of its usual position, causing the UJ's to operate at a sharper angle than intended, therefore shortening their life.

The front obviously is a different kettle of fish. The front UJ's run out of true from the factory(dont arge, they DO!) If you lift it it changes diff angle, camber, KPI, and trail. Hard to tune out, changes lots thru its suspension range, and is generally suited to give decent ish road manners. IMHO

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