Vehicle & Technical > Discovery

disco truck.

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boss:

--- Quote from: clbarclay on July 10, 2008, 20:59:55 --- That constat ringing in the ears is not very pleasent :roll:

--- End quote ---
i know! :D

there will be no horizontal bolts, the plates above and below are to try and reduce the stress on the bolts and distribute some load on the chassis. i thought if i were to winch up something it will put almost a twisting force on the tray and the bolts don't need to take a pulling load and a twisting load...if that makes sense. i may put some vertical bolts in just to be sure. i was also going to extend it all and bolt to the other holes behind the cross member but i got no more steel :(, the Devon bumper i had on there did it, thought it were quite a good idea.

 if all goes well with this one i will be doing the same to the back

clbarclay:
If just the front 4 bolts were used then yes it could impart quite a bit of twisting load onto the front section of the chassis, but using the 6 bolt method the rear pair of bolts can be considered as a fulcrum. The result is when you winch up/down relative to the vehicle the load on the front bolts is just just up/down rather than twisting.

One comment about bolted joint design is n a good structural joint the shear loads on the joint (so in your case winching forwards) should be transmitted through the clamping force of the bolts creating friction between the winch mount and the chassis. The bolts themselfs not needing to physically touching the chassis.

Make sure the winch mount bolts tight on the chassis so that the joints don't slip, otherwise the bolts will take a beating and won't last too long.

You will also need a to weld crush tubes into any additional holes you make in the chassis to stop it bending in when you tighten the bolts, an M12 bolt torqued up to 100Nm has a clamping force of around 50KN IIRC (thats the equiverlant of 5 tons). Idealy the surfaces of the bolted joint should also be nice and flat, which the top and bottom surfaces of a disco chassis are not. Note the extra plates welded on either side of the 4 bolt holes for the front bumper, I would sugest coppying this on the top and bottom of the chassis If you are going to use verticle bolts.

bravo669:
if in doubt crack out the angle grinder! thats always stood me in good staed! most of the time, sometimes....... :-k
looking good though! :thumbup:

clover:
That bobtail pickup with the big tires (dumper or tractor?) is an interesting one. I think a lot of off road courses won't allow those type of tires.

I can't see any rear shocks on it - is it my eyesight? Also his dislocating springs are an interesting setup. I guess he has just not bothered to bolt the bottom spring platform to the axle and has somehow managed to attach the spring to the top. Seems an odd way of doing it. Mine is the opposite.

clbarclay:
Nothing too odd about that way of dislocating the rear springs. If you can do some basic fabrication then its a very easy way to DIY.

This is what I have on the back of mine, just a few lengths of bar welded to the bottem spring seat to make a cone and 2 lengths of flat with a couple of holes in and some nuts and bolts to clamp the top of the spring to the chassis. So far I've had no issues with this setup and unlike some top dislocation setups that twang every time the relocate I usually forget these are even fitted, they just quietly get on with the job.

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