Chat & Social > The Bar - General Chat
Spotlight relays and fuseboxes
Terranosaurus:
All depends how you are wiring them but as you have 6 lights and 3 relays I'll assume in pairs, will also assume 100w bulbs as you may want to fit them later anyway.
Don't use figure of eight stuff, buy proper auto cable, you'll waste loads of earth wire with figure of eight as your feeds will need to be longer. Also everything will end up the same 2 colours. Buy from elsewhere an get lots of colours so you can see what you are doing.
For all cable, switches, fuses etc have a look here - http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php
Each 100w bulb draws 8.3 amps so the feed from the relay to each lamps needs to be capable of carrying at least that preferably more. Ref 16. 32/0.20mm, 1mm2, 16.5amp @26p/metre
Earths from each bulb need to be to the same spec as the feed
Each relay needs a feed through a fuse capable of supplying 2 bulbs so minimum 16.66amp - Ref 33 . 44/0.30mm, 3mm2, 33amp@ 50p/metre
If you want to bring a common feed up from the alternator/battery for the fuse box it will need to be good for 50amp so Ref 80. 80/0.40mm, 10mm2, 70amp @ £1.38/metre
You'll also need a switching circuit, this carries next to no curent so can be the thinnest stuff - Ref 11. 16/0.20mm, 0.5mm2, 11amp. @ 21p/metre
You don't need a tell tail light but if you fancy one it can't harm. They do need to be wired so that they can only come on with main beam to be truely legal on the road. A three position switch cn be good for this. Centre off: Up Overide (comes on on their own) - Down Road setting (on with main beam only).
I'm not sure if you are doing but I would put them on three separate switches so you can choose which you want on when.
If using 100w bulbs, whats your alternator like 6 x 100w + 2 x 60w mainbeam is 720W or 60amp. Which probably doesn't leave you much to capacity in your alternator after everything els is powered and alternators don't last long running at 100% all the time.
Suggest BRAIDED SLEEVING for keeping things tidy under engine bay etc, needs a bit of heat shrink over each end to really tidy things up.
cardiff_gareth:
Well I'm trying to digest all that :shock:
Am I in too deep here, sounds very complicated :shock: again
Range Rover Blues:
I'd suggest using 7 core trialer wire for roof lights as it's a neat wat of doing the job.
And I've stopped using the fused relays because I keep melting them.
Terranosaurus:
--- Quote from: "Range Rover Blues" ---I'd suggest using 7 core trialer wire for roof lights as it's a neat wat of doing the job.
--- End quote ---
Problem is it's not really up to the job, contains
6 or 7 lots of 14/0.30mm, 1mm2 - 8.75amp
1 x 28/0.30mm, 2mm2 - 17.5amp
So you'll be running most of the wiring right on its limit with 100w bulbs, that limit of course is reduced too because its all wrapped together in one sheathing. It's only really designed for running 42w max on each ie 2 brake lights.
When you do this you suffer from more voltage drop than usual along a given length of wire which causes your lights to be less bright than they could be. The wiring will also probably be getting warm perhaps not hot, but warm all the same.
Terranosaurus:
Your fuses should really be the connector block side of your relays but other than that the power side sounds, fine, remember to use a suitably sized cable for the earth bar-body strap.
Your switch should be in the activating circuit for the relays, if your switching it with main beam (the legal way), splice into the main beam out from the back of the stalk/switch then run that through your switch to the relays. If you don't want to switch them with main beam, the easiest way is to switch from earth, take a feed from upstream of the fuses to the activating coil of the relay (assuming relays moved as I suggest otherwise from connector block). Then from the earths of the relay, joined together run through the bulkhead to the switch and thus to earth.
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