Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

Advice for body lift

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Range Rover Blues:
If it leaks, you bust it if it doens't chances are it's ok, just look at the pipework routing to make sure nothing is chaffing.  On all mine the rigid pipes are held to the chasis with a tie-wrap, they pass above the chassis to the hairy sauasage ahead of the water rad then feed back to the in-rad heat exchanger.  The pipes from the front of the engine are flexi so the only ones to worry about will be the rigid ones beneath the rad.

Range Rover Ron:
Why don't you just fit 2" longer springs & shockers?

clbarclay:
There are various advantages and disadvantages of both suspension and body lifts when compared against each other.


Here are just a few (leaving dampers out of this)

Body lift
Pros: Potentially much chepaer, no change to steering or suspension geometry, centre of gravity is not raised as much due to heavy componet (engine, transmission, chassis etc.) not being raised, extra clearance makes cleaning the chassis easier, every inch of body lift is garanties and extra vertical inch of clearance for bigger tyres. Nominal maximum a RRC/discc can be easily lifted before significant problems arise is 3" (steering shaft needing lengthening), moving the brake MC up 1.5" allowed enough clearance to fit 11" travel dampers on the front of a RRC

Cons: corroded body mounts are often best left alown, lots of connections (auto box oil cooler) that need to be checked, new brakets may need fabricating (not all people have welders). defenders can not easily be body lifted


Suspension lift
Pros: springs are usually a lot easier to change (but I have still spent half a day making new axle mounting brakets to replace corroded origionals), improves approch/breakover/departure angles, typically looks better (thoguh subjective), All 4x4s can be suspension lifted. Changing to longer softer springs for a lift can improve traction on rough terrain (but at the expense of stability on slopes)

Cons: typically costs more, 1" of suspension lift does not neccisserily equal an extra 1" of clearance on full compression for bigger tyres, raises the height of heavy components rasing CofG higher, nomianally the suspension on a LR can only be lifted 2" before expensive problems start to arise, most suspension lifts useually involves stiffer springs which will reduce traction on rough terrain (leaving locked diffs out of this), can reduce axle articulation.

If anybody can think of any more pros or cons then do add them to the lists.


The ideal varies on application and circumstances, my latest 4x4 uses a combination of both for best effect.

buster uk:
I have a 2" spring lift with proper 2" lift dampers.I have lifted the body 2" to gain more wheel clearance as i want bigger ones and secondly to gain more bodywork to floor/hill/rock clearance.I didn't want to go 4" lift on suspension alone.

RRB,
See what you mean now about the oil cooler pipes  :shock:
Just got away with that one,the metal pipes were bent,but none damaged or flattened.

Bobtail:

--- Quote from: "buster uk" ---I have a 2" spring lift with proper 2" lift dampers.I have lifted the body 2" to gain more wheel clearance as i want bigger ones and secondly to gain more bodywork to floor/hill/rock clearance.I didn't want to go 4" lift on suspension alone.

RRB,
See what you mean now about the oil cooler pipes  :shock:
Just got away with that one,the metal pipes were bent,but none damaged or flattened.
--- End quote ---


Any Photo's yet?

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