Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover
Buyer's Guide - Range Rover P38a
thermidorthelobster:
As an experiment I've created this as a Sticky thread so it can be built on and added to. Please post your Buyer's Guide comments on buying a P38a below. If this works well we may be able to use the format for other vehicles too.
Thanks, Thermidor
thermidorthelobster:
Well, I guess I'll go first... :D
Engines
The 4.6 V8 has a marked tendency towards slipping cylinder head liners; earlier examples in particular also had porous block problems. Problems quite often arise around 95,000 miles, and you'll find a surprising number of P38s have had engine replacements at that mileage. Personally I'd steer clear of a 4.6 at that sort of mileage as problems are so common. The 4.0V8 is better in this respect, partly because the engine's not been milled out so drastically.
As with all V8s, look for signs of overheating (not good), regular servicing and clean oil (not mayonnaise).
The 2.5 diesel is a BMW 6-cylinder unit and is a basically decent engine, although it's pretty underpowered in a P38. It's relatively easy to chip and upgrade in various ways. Make sure the engine hasn't been thrashed all its life just to get the truck moving.
Electronics
The P38a is a complex beast - there are somewhat over 9 ECUs all communicating together, and if they won't play ball, all sorts of problems can arise. However, when you're buying one, either it's working, in which case fine, or it's not, in which case steer well clear. Among the less obvious things to check are that the HEVAC system (heating / aircon) behaves appropriately.
On the higher-spec models make sure all the in-cab gadgets (such as motorised seats) are working properly. Replacement motors can be expensive.
Air Suspension
The P38's air suspension is both an asset and a potential problem area. Problems can arise with:
- the air bags - these can leak, but can be replaced fairly easily - go for OEM equivalent parts, not Genuine Parts
- the valve block - this used to be expensive to fix but can now be reconditioned more easily
- the compressor - which can wear out, particularly if problems exist elsewhere in the system
- the unions, particularly where rubber o-rings can perish but are replaceable.
To check the system, drop the vehicle down to its haunches using the dashboard control, then raise it to normal ride height. This should only take a couple of minutes. The compressor may be audible but shouldn't be intrusively loud. If the compressor runs continuously for more than 5 minutes or so then there's almost certainly a problem.
If left to settle overnight, the truck shouldn't drop noticeably; and one corner shouldn't sag.
Body & chassis
Check for general chassis rust as normal. Lift up the plastic flap where the tailgate opens and check underneath. P38s aren't particular rust-traps but some panels, the substructure and the chassis are of course steel so may rust.
waveydavey:
Aircon
I know of three people myself included who have lost the aircon because of the same fault. The condenser is the furthest forward cooler and develops a leak at the bottom nearside corner, the way to tell is that you can see an slight oil stain underneath.
It's a relatively easy fix, about a two hour job and various places sell the condenser for around £100.
Although all those I know of were Diesels the condenser is in the same spot on the V8 so I suspect it will be much the same.
Air Suspension
Worth noting that there are places that do rebuild bits, everything from airbags to compressor and valve seals. LR parts is the expensive option!
andycwb:
See www.p38a.co.uk for my collected wisdom on the topic.
Range Rover Blues:
A decent upgrade to the air suspension would be to fit Arnott GIII springs form the 'states, especially as the pound is so strong there. Roughly $230 a pair. These give a better ride because the spring rates are altered and more travel I believe.
Contact Rover Renovations for advice/purchase on all EAS parts
http://www.rover-renovations.com/
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