Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

Brakes.... should they stop you?

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Jonny Boaterboy:
I guess if I went up backwards it would hold fine on the foot brake as the front wheels appear to be ok.

Interesting about the anti lock valve waveydavey so how are you surposed to stop youself on a failed hill climb.... pull the hand break?

  :?

Range Rover Blues:
Front wheels should be doing more than 70 of the braking, but what you said about brake fade reminds me that my rear brakes are not that good at the moment.

Although the orignal spec for the rear disks sees a smaller diameter they are in truth the same disk as the front, so less of the surface area is used and as the back brakes don't work as hard it's possible for the surface to rust or become pitted.

What's happened to mine is that the surface has rusted and the pads have polished that rust, it continued to rust away and formed a scale on the disk surface that the pads polish but can't grip, it's a bit spongy.  So the braking effort goes into this scale rather than the disk and the brakes become less effective.  What makes it doubly worse is that it mostly happens on the outside of the disk, reducing the disk efficiency further.

So look at the rear disks for scaling, oil contamination (a favourite on Blue), blueing (overheating) and general condition.  If they are scored what caused this? and are the pads wearing evenly across all 4.

That said I still don't think the rear brakes are strong enough to lock up the wheels unless you stand the car on it's nose.  the deceleration valve on the inner wing will reduce the hydraulic line pressure to the rear only when the car is decelerating rapidly, it might do something if you are facing down that hill.

BTW you have ABS right, did you check it with the engine running? the hydrostatic circuit only works on the front primary circuit, not the secondary/back circuit.  That is taken care of by the ABS hydraulic pump and booster unit.

As for failed hill climb, err, handbrake :? possibly? dunno on that one but I'd hope you had difflock on a 1 in 1 hill climb otherwise when the front end starts to scramble you could spill it.  As you will know with the Viscous unit it's not so hot when the vehicle is stationary, it could have done with manual lock as well.

Jonny Boaterboy:
Ummmm it could be the fact the discs are in a bad way there is scoring on them and alot or corosion maybe a discs and pad change is in order..... so do I go for standard landrover pad's and discs of put some EBC's on there?

The brakes are quite spongy as well do you bleed the brakes in the same way as standard brakes using the nippels on the calipas and if so is this how you change the brake fluid i.e. pump out the old fluid while keeping the resivior toped up with new fluid?

Range Rover Blues:
Yes but......
I was reading the manual last night by coincidence as I think my rear callipers are past their best on the LSE and I have new ones from Blue I've never fitted.

I'm fitting standard disks on the back with EBC pads, not that they make any real difference as the standard pads are very good.

EBC disks are about £70 from Paddocks if you feel a bit saucy, you aught to put matching ones on the front soon after though :wink:

otherwise I'd say standard is fine if it's in good condition.  Make sure you clean your new disks with spirits (petrol etc) before using them, the oil they come in is hrad to shift but if you leave it on it will ruin the new disk.  Go on, ask me how I know that :evil:

Jonny Boaterboy:
sounds like you have had a bad experience! I allways thought oil would burn off eventually? What about the brake cleaning sprays you can get do they work or is the petrol the best bet?

Its true what they say about you Mr Blues you know your stuff shame you dont live down the road! it good to have someone with you knowledge and  understanding who is so willing to help all the time I will buy you a beer one day       =D>

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