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Torque setting

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locknut:
What torque setting is the front wheel bearing on my defender,single nut only. I have a cd rom but having problems accessing it.  Also i'd need a front inner hub if anybody has one :!:

Eeyore:
That doesn't make a heap of sense, I'm afraid.

Are we talking about the 52mm hub-nut?  :-s

If we are, there is no specified torque setting for it, and it should have two nuts, plus a locking washer!!  :shock:

Clarification required, please  :?

Cheers
 8)
Eeyore

Porny:

--- Quote from: "Eeyore" ---That doesn't make a heap of sense, I'm afraid.

Are we talking about the 52mm hub-nut?  :-s

If we are, there is no specified torque setting for it, and it should have two nuts, plus a locking washer!!  :shock:

Clarification required, please  :?

Cheers
 8)
Eeyore
--- End quote ---


Eeyore... call yourself an engineer  :wink:  :wink: ....

It depends what year the vehicle is... but the pre 1999 method is below:

From the Land Rover Workshop manual:

Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft). Ensure hub is free to rotate with no bearing play.

Back off adjusting nut 90° and tighten to 10 Nm (7 lbf/ft).  

Fit a new lock washer.  

Fit locknut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft).  

Tab over lock washer to secure adjusting nut and locknut.  

In all honesty I don't usually use the first torque figure and set the bearing up by feel... but the outside nut should be torqued up to 50Nm


And then from '99 onwards the two nuts were replaced with one.. and thus the method changes.

Instal washer and new hub nut and tighten to 30 Nm (22 lbf.ft).  

Rotate and push/pull hub to settle bearings. Tighten hub nut to 210 Nm (150 lbf.ft).  

To check hub assembly end float, mount a dial gauge using bracket LRT-99-503 to driving member bolt hole.  

Ensure dial gauge is contacting hub nut face.  

Move hub assembly in and out noting dial gauge reading.  

If end float is present refer to table for correct spacer and change spacer as necessary.

End float (mm) Spacer size (mm) Colour code

0.00 15.5 Purple
0.025 15.4 Yellow
0.050 15.4 Yellow
0.075 15.4 Yellow
0.10 15.3 Red
0.125 15.3 Red
0.150 15.3 Red
0.175 15.2 Blue
0.200 15.2 Blue
0.225 15.2 Blue
0.250 15.2 Blue
0.275 15.1 Green
0.300 15.1 Green
0.325 15.1 Green
0.350 15.1 Green
0.375 15.0 Black
0.400 15.0 Black
0.425 15.0 Black
0.450 15.0 Black
0.475 14.9 White
0.500 14.9 White
0.525 14.9 White
0.550 14.9 White

When no end float is evident, remove the dial gauge and mounting bracket.  

Stake the hub nut.



Ian

Eeyore:
No, but I'm pretty good on nipping up wheel bearings  :wink:

The described methods wortk fine if boths nuts are there and I read the orignal post as there being only one nut present! My bad  :lol:

If both nuts are present, then yes, feel free to torque the outer nut up, but before bashing the lock washer over make sure the inner nut hasn't been affected by tightening the outer nut up (and trust me, it happens).

Sorry for the confusion!

Cheers
 8)
Eeyore

mmgemini:

--- Quote from: "Eeyore" ---That doesn't make a heap of sense, I'm afraid.

Are we talking about the 52mm hub-nut?  :-s

If we are, there is no specified torque setting for it, and it should have two nuts, plus a locking washer!!  :shock:

Clarification required, please  :?

Cheers
 8)
Eeyore
--- End quote ---


There is now.
In this day and age manufacturers want you to use their dealerships.
When I was taught a torque wrench was for very special jobs. Now it seems you need one for every job.

This is how I do it on the two locking nut type.

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=81748

Well that's the way I was taught.

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