Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Lift and the way to go !

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Poprivit-RRC:
thinking of lifting my 110 for some extra hight when out for a play.

should i go for spacers or new springs and shocks. I only want 2" max so i retain some road manners and don't have to think about caster ETC.

also after a good front guard to stop the wheels from pointing the wrong way :)

Eeyore:
Even with two inches you may have to think about some form of caster correction - fit it, drive it, and see what happens. I needed to redress it after a shorter lift than that, but maybe thats my mechanical symapathy and LR build tolerances :wink:

2" is enough to alter the handling charecteristics and induce more body roll - I eliminated it by upping the spring rates considerabley, but I wouldn't recommned this for everyone (the ride is harsh when unloaded, sweet loaded and works excellently at speed (it's the most stable 110 I've driven). I would say go for springs and shocks, instead of spacers. Lifting by 2" will exceed the design spec of the standard damper and risks premature failure of them (you don't want to be using your dampers as a check strap). If you fit spacers you'll still need longer dampers unless they've already been upgraded. If you fit longer shocks and retain the orgininal mounting points, you should fit longer bump stops too, otherwise you may find you damper is used to limit upward travel too.

Despite having them fitted, I wouldn't recommend lowering the shock mounts. On the front it's pointless as the axle bushes limit droop anyway, and on the back they will further limit the upward compression of the spring, costing you compliance.

As for steering guards, it really depends on what you intend doing. For laning and light work at play days, again I'd buck the trend here and fit a guard for the track rod that sits behind the axle, not only this stop the trackrod bending from direct impact, but also protects from the forces applied to the wheels (a more common source of bents rods that you'd imagine), unlike a conventional steering guard. For in front of the axle, I'd fit a bog standard, el cheapo, tubular job, like what Landrover sell - they're light, don't snag on stuff, and they're cheap!

Mind you the racer still has straight rods, but they're reinforced. The MjLee steering guard however is very out of shape, but you won't get a harder working envirnoment for a 4x4!  :wink: It does however shred the approach angle of the car, if you are worried about that kind of thing. However, if you're going challenging, or racing it isn't so much of an issue.

HTH

cheers
 8)
Eeyore

paul_humphreys:
Take a look here http://forums.mud-club.com/viewtopic.php?t=23034 to see what people have done and how it all works. But as above don't got for spacers do the job right and it will handle better as well.

Paul

markyb:
when you say handling isnt to great,  to what scale.

if a stock 110 is say 5 . Subaru Scooby is a 1

I take it a nice set of shinny QT arms or simular  will sort out the caster or is there anytype of bushes you can buy?


reason for above was i was looking at 2 inch lift soon as i get the 110 .
i already have the OME shocks as used on anotehr toy, .  probably best to suck it and see before i shell out the  200 notes for the hockey sticks.

i presume no probs on props ?

Muddy:
Props somtimes vibrate bad or not at all usualy luck of the draw i think. I would always fit new ujs when you fit the lift and then they will bed in to the new angles of the lift.

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