Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

3.9 V8 Auto overheating

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Range Rover Blues:
Compression does go down if the battery is fading, you are compressing a gas which is escaping through the rings as you build up pressure.  That siad you have got some very low numbers there anyway IIRC, I think I get around 205 for the LSE and about 165 for Blue.

Definitely do both heads.  If the old gasket is composite it could explain the low compression but you need to build the engine up balanced left to right.

You don't need to skim the heads, composite gaskets are more tolerant and I've got away with it before now, torch and straight edge is a damn good idea (I use feeler guages though).

The oil in the plugs has simply collected there after escaping the rocker cover.

The black sooty appearence is running  slightly rich, if it's dry sooty rather than wet oily then don't worry, modern low-lead fuels don't leave the white deposits all books like to talk about, the best you can hope for is dark brown.

As long as the sparking surface is clear they are ok.

Dr Strangeglove:
It is dry soot on the plugs.  I will change both of the gaskets as they are in a set anyway.  I just wondered should I be looking out for any other fixable items whilst I am in their?

Range Rover Blues:
Well you will be able to see the camshaft, so if you have the time mooch around RPI's website (sorry. no link) for the things to look at there, and hope you don't need to do anything as camshafts can be expensive.  IIRC the things to look for a hollow faces on the hydraulic followers and brown marks on the can lobes, the followers should spin as the engine runs, if they don't then the camshaft is wearing out.

You will be able to see the starter, check the earth strap..Check the engine mounts.

Engine wise most of it will be on your bench in the near future.  If you can get hold of some Dye penetrant then you can check the condition of the block casting for the so-called porouos block syndrome.  I've heard lots of theories on theis one but I have seen a couple of block show cracks in the gasket face.

I use WD40 and a kitchen scourer(green plastic, not wire-wool) to clean the carbon from the heads and pistons, sela the pistons with grease first.  Clean the valves and lap them in, fetlle any casting ridges from the air tracts in the heads.  Check the valve guides for side-play and again if you have the dye-pen check for cracks.

If you start looking for things to replace you can do serious damage to your wallet, so don't start worrying about the rocker shafts or anything like that, if it's not bust, don't fix it is my advice.

Dr Strangeglove:
Bump

Yoshi:
Very interesting read that :D am gonna head on with mine in haste!  Well when i can afford a new rad :D so will replace the rad and then try her and see how she goes, if she overheats again i will try everything else (we know the rad is goosed cos its got a big puddle underneath it!)

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