Vehicle & Technical > Defender
Expecting Too Much??
Porny:
Simple stuff first:
Who fitted your intercooler??
Is the throttle cable adjusted correctly?? - not taking the micky, but 200 and 300's have a habit of winding themselves off.
Are you getting full throttle - i.e. is the lever hitting the stop on the injector pump whe you have your foot flat to the floor.
If you unscrew the fuel filter is it full to the top??... if not your lift pump may be getting tired which will affect performance.
Other things:
Check all the intercooler hoses
- yours are new so should be ok! - but still check for leaks.
Injector pump:
We will presume that who ever did the pump mods has set the diaphragm in the injector pump to the max position (easy to check).
But one problem on some 200 and 300 injector pumps is the pin that controls fueling on and off boost becomes stiff. To check this:
Remove the rubber diagram from the injector pump, and have a look down the inside of the pump where the shaft on the diaphragm sits…
You should be able to see the tip of a sliding pin - called the guide pin (on the rad side of the pump)…
Basically when boost pressure is created, the diaphragm is pushed down, which allows the pin to move out, which in turn increases the fuel supply.
If this pin gets seized you only have off boost fuel settings… and power is dramatically reduced as the engine is running to lean.
This either means a rebuild, or spraying copious amount of WD40 down the shaft, and try and free the pin if it is seized.
To test to see if the pin is moving…
Remove the diaphragm and clean the section under the rubber diagram, (i.e. the operating profile), removing any marks, grease etc….
Then, smear fresh grease over its full length (don’t need loads, just a thin layer) and replace the diaphragm and top cap.
Go for a quick drive ensuring you get the turbo to produce boost pressure (vehicle needs to be driven as boost pressure is only produced under load) Then, remove the diaphragm again and…. If the pin is moving correctly there will a witness mark in the grease along the length of the shaft… if no mark, then you know that the guide/operating pin is not moving.
Boost Pipe:
Check the pipe that runs from the actuator on the turbo to the anode on the injector pump - it may be that this split or blocked (disconnect and blow through with an airline)
Boost pressure of the Turbo:
Connect a Boost Gauge and go for a drive - try and find a longish hill and attack it flat out in 4th (or 3rd) and see what the maximum pressure is. It should be 1 bar or 15 psi (just over a bar which is 14.7psi) - if lower then adjust to suit. (1bar on a 300Tdi, 0.8 bar on a 200Tdi - though you can run 1 bar without a problem on a 200Tdi)
Engine Timing:
Does the engine struggle to start?? Or smoke when running.
When the cam belt was replaced they may have incorrectly set the engine timing.
To check....(engine off)
If you look on the front cover on the engine, you will see an inspection plate attached by three screws, remove this and you will see the pulley that drives the fuel injection pump.
If you look at this, you should see a timing hole. Turn the engine over with a bar (with a socket on the damper bolt) until this timing hole lines up with the timing hole in the timing cover behind the pulley (use of a torch helps) - when it does insert an 8mm or 10mm drill bit (plain end first) - if you gently try turning the engine over now, it should be locked.
Once this is locked, go underneath the Land Rover (with a torch) and look up through the hole in the flywheel housing at the flywheel. If the timing is correct you should see a cut out in the flywheel. If it not there, try just turning the engine slightly either way with the bar (still with fuel pump locked) and look to see if you can see it. If the timing is correct it will be there.
If not.... remove the drill bit from the fuel injector pump and get somebody to turn the engine over with the bar until you can see it, to see how far out/and what your looking for.
Inlet Manifold:
Make sure the gasket is ok and not leaking.
Fuel Lines:
Check all the fuel lines for split, cracks, kinks etc etc.
Might also be worth removing the pick up pipe out of the tank and checking the gauze (if fitted) is clean and the end of the pipe (and the whole pipe for that matter) is free from damage - also check the return is not blocked or damaged.
Fuel Cap:
Remove this when the engine is running (or just after) do you get a hiss of air??? - if so, fuel tank vent or vented cap may be blocked.
Exhaust:
Has this been dented or bent etc etc? - check for any external damage that may be causing a restriction.
None engine related:
Brakes and handbrake - are these adjusted correctly or are they binding?
Tyre pressures - as mentioned
Ian
extreme90:
as usual ian's covered the ins and outs in uttermost deatail :lol:
ian how much you charge for a ecu remap on a td5 :roll:
danny
Porny:
--- Quote from: "thebiggreenthing" ---as usual ian's covered the ins and outs in uttermost deatail :lol:
ian how much you charge for a ecu remap on a td5 :roll:
danny
--- End quote ---
Danny,
You have a pm... well you will in a min.
Ian
extreme90:
:lol: chears ian, much appreciated
danny
drmike:
As a far more subjective reply - when I fitted just an uprated intercooler on the disco I noticed an immediate difference. It was a better drive all round so I think you'll be working through Porny's checklist!
Mike
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