Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

Air suspension fault

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Skibum346:

--- Quote from: "ScrumpyJack" ---
--- Quote from: "Range Rover Blues" ---
He's a nice chap isn't he :)

You will now need to use a diagnostic to clear any fault in the sustem and unlike the engine ECU you can't just unplug it.  I really love the consistancy of Land Rover ECU design, don't you?

Does it sit on the bumpo stops when under ECU control then or what? is the compressor running at all? how do you bypass the ECU exactly?
--- End quote ---


Yes, Yes he is,
Well the saga continues,
Now the rear of the car goe's down overnight, GREAT, will have to sort out yet another leak, but I can handle that 1,
and yes to the question, it does go down to bump stops when ECU is conected, god bless that little ecu :twisted:

As you say I prob need to get the system cleared to work, or I have more than 1 fault, although I have now changed the valve block, the pump, and a bag, what more does it want from me :cry:

ANYWAY this is isnt the most anoying thing at the moment,
after changing the bag and bypassing the ECU to pump up the air, I put the dog in the car and off I went, drove for about 5 mins, took the mut for an hours walk got back to the car and the bloody thing wouldn't start, :evil:  :evil:  :evil:

I tried and tried checking fuses and the like, but had to get the AA to recover me home in the end :cry:
He said there was no power to the injectors and sujested a relay, now I've had a look and cant find any bad relays, ( main fuel, fuel pump, and fuses )
any ideas,

P.S
bypassing the ECU is easy,
linking the the pins in the ecu loom,
1 = power
8 = pump
26 = valve inlet
10, 11, 27. 28 = seperate bags
--- End quote ---


Just my tuppeny for you... We had an inconsistent problem with the EAS that was finally traced to a relay of some kind in the dashboard. It was assoiated with the ignition. Could it be possible that this is at the heart of your EAS problems and in your case it's also inhibited the ignition...?

Can't give any details as to the relay as it was our local experts (Douglass Motors @ Wolston) who sorted it out.

Good luck and stick with the EAS... the kids in the traffic queues love trying to explain it... "Dad... dad... that man made his car go up and down.......   but he diiiiiiddddddd!"     :twisted:

ScrumpyJack:
Thanks for that, will have a look at those relays aswell after the new year now,
The wife and kids love Macky dees on a sat night when all the boy racers are about, park next to them lower to access, then up and away when the food is deliverd :lol:  :lol:

mind you it does help if your car looks a bit bling, if I new how to post a pic on here i'd let you see,

ScrumpyJack:
Thanks for that, will have a look at those relays aswell after the new year now,
The wife and kids love Macky dees on a sat night when all the boy racers are about, park next to them lower to access, then up and away when the food is deliverd :lol:  :lol:

mind you it does help if your car looks a bit bling, if I new how to post a pic on here i'd let you see,

ScrumpyJack:
Thanks for that, will have a look at those relays aswell after the new year now,
The wife and kids love Macky dees on a sat night when all the boy racers are about, park next to them lower to access, then up and away when the food is deliverd :lol:  :lol:

mind you it does help if your car looks a bit bling, if I new how to post a pic on here i'd let you see,

Range Rover Blues:
I should have mentioned before but when you turn on the ignition all 3 lights for the EAS should 'self-test' ie come on.  Then the system should resume it's previous setting and all lights go out unless you had it in high profile.  I'm going to guess here that your up and down buttons stay on, if so this is the warning of a fault, the dash light will also be on and this fault needs clearing from the ECU before you go any further.

I wouldn't suggest substituting an alternative ECU simply because it needs calibrating to your car, otherwise you could pick one up for the same price as an hour on testbook at the local stealer :roll:

Unlike the ABS and to an extent the EFi, the EAS is not meant to be fixed at home :evil:


Typically an air leak will not be detected by the ECU, it can 'work out' that a valve is stuck when one corner fails to rise.
It does know when the pump overheats, it also runs it for a fixed time.  IIRC it runs for short periods if the temp sensor is faulty, or is it the pressure sensor :?
If the pump is FUBAR then the whole system will be let down, obviously.

Your next step is either replce the pump with a spare one (or strip it) or get the vehicle onto testbook/rovacom and get the faults read/cleared.

Try a few of the local specialists though.

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