Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Blown Heater Matrix

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Ben:
Hi All

The story so far...

About 8 weeks ago, I popped the engine on the 90 - basically it looks like the turbo oil seal decided to let go, and this caused the head gasket to blow fairly spectacularly.
Anyway, a visit from the local fire brigade, and a tow home from a friendly 110 owner (thanks Adie!) and I've got a dead 90 on the drive.

Wind forward 6 weeks, and I've had a rebuilt 300TDi (from a disco, I think) put in, the rad's been pressure tested and ok'd, and new pipes throughout.

Now it's started overheating...

The one thing we didn't check was the condition of the heater matrix after suffering from the same excessive pressure as the rest of the system. It looks like the engine "end" of the system is solid and leak free. If I disconnect the heater and bleed the system through it seems to run at constant temperature. As soon as I reconnect the heater it starts to overheat.
It looks like I've blown a pipe somewhere inside the heater matrix box, which is leaking water out. It's not noticeable on a short trip, but the self bleed on the system refills the heater box when reconnected, and then it slowly drips away when left standing.
Short term remedy is to bypass the heater by reconnecting the hose back onto itself, and to wire up the heated seats...
Long term remedy is to find a replacement heater box. They look rather expensive though  :( Expect a Wanted Ad!!!

Cheers

Ben

Eeyore:
It's not as bad as it seems - as you can just replace the matrix. A super dooper high output one costs about 130 squid - you should be able to get a standard one for a lot less - or even get the old recored at a friendly radiator company.

Replacing the matrix is a relatively easy job - even I've done it, so it can't be hard.

Take heart, that man!

HTH
Eeyore

Porny:
As Eeyore says,

Really not that hard to do, if anything it's a perfect excuse to get the heater working properly....

That is:
- Sealing the matrix in the heater box correctly,
- Making sure that the seal is in good condition between the heater box and the bulkhead,
- Checking the seal that links the 'ram' pipe from the wing intake to the heater box is ok
- Adjusting the cable so that the flaps in the heater moves as they should

All you need to disassemble the heater box is a drill and drill bit (amazingly) to drill out the old rivets and then some new rivets and a riveting tool to put it back together.
Obviously you also need spanners and sockets, and a screw driver, to take the heater box out in the first place!!!

Any problems give us a shout, as have done this a few times!!!


Ian

Eeyore:
'Ello :?  Now my matrix was held in with a screwed down panel, and not riveted in (which I had expected). How curious - must investigate.

But yeah, - sort the seals, makes lots of difference!

cheers
Eeyore

Ben:
Thanks Guys - I was beginning to lose heart - it just seems to be one thing after another. The drivers door window has decided to jump off it's winder as well...

I think I'm going to bypass the heater for now, just so that I can use it on the forthcoming Derbyshire weekend... Just need to get the heated seat pads in...

I'll see how easy it looks when I've got the replacement matrix. If it looks all too much, I might take you up on the offier Ian!

Thanks

Ben

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