Vehicle & Technical > Discovery
Big Discos
Budgie:
If you're wanting to run 35" then, unless you're going for Simex who do taller but thiner tyres, then you're looking at 35x12.5x15 as a common size. So the smallest width wheel size you can go for and be safe is 8Jx15, which is what I have. Some run them on 10Jx15.
If you want to keep any sort of turning circle then the wheels will have to be offset alot more than the standard ones of these sizes, even if you go for 35x10.5x16 Simex's. This will also mean that your +2" lift and non-flared arches won't cope with this size of tyre.
When I fitted the flares I took about a 3" deep section out of the arches (see the bottom photo above after I had removed the rear section. The bit I removed in on the ground!), how much have you taken out of your arches so far? :wink:
Like I said above, I have a +3" lift on the suspension and a 33" tyre is as large as I will go without an extra inch or so on the suspension or a body lift.
I also have double shockers on the rear as I found that it was very bouncy with weight in the back and without the ARBs fitted. I could have got a higher rated spring but I'd only just got these and didn't want to change them so soon. Plus the extra shocks help with road holding as well. :wink:
Unless you've already changed the transfer box or diff ratios then that will be your biggest problem. The 35's will have a big effect on the speed of the motor on the road. Hills on the motorway will see you in 4th, maybe 3rd, trying to get up them and at 30mph you'll have to use 3rd gear, getting into 4th at just over 40mph with the standard transfer box & diffs.
You only have to change one or the other to get the gearing back though, but it will still set you back around £400 for the trnasfer box and about £600 for two recon diffs. The diffs can be cheaper if you do the rebuild yourself though. :D
Before you go spending your money on a set of 35's, do a wee bit of measuring.
1. Get a tape and measure from the centre of the axle hub to the closest part of the wheelarch on the wings. This needs to be alot more that 17.5" (half the 35" tyre dia) to fit for road use.
2. Fully articulate the suspension, see where your current tyres end up and measure it again from the hub to the inner arches to see if the 35's will fit.
This doesn't allow for any offset of the wheels to keep your steering though!!
Hope that lot helps. :D
G:
Cheers Budgie, that lot is great help,
35/10.50's is the plan, either simex, fedima or silverstone. I prefer narrower tyres for the turning circle and they cut through mud better. I spoke to Rachael Simmonite (via email) who said that the fedimas are fine on 7" or 8". I'm after as much room under the diff as i can get so i'll probably opt for the narrowest wheel i can can get away with rather than pushing out to 10" rims.
I've fitted flared arches, The wings have been cut roughly in line with the inner arch with the flares fitted so that the just cover the inner arch, just for looks really. If the 35's dont fit then the flares could come off and flexi arches fitted which follow the line of the inner arch.
I really want to steer clear of body lifts so it'll have to be more suspension lift if needs be. I hadn't considered changing the shockers, will see how much bounce that mine has once they are fitted. The ARB's were chucked as soon as i got it so i'm not sure that i'll notice any difference. I don't carry much and the fuel tank is only 45ltrs so no major weight even fully filled.
MMM, ratios.... will probably opt for a ratio change in the transfer box eventually so that i can run standard ratio diffs. I'll be fitting lockers soon but will be one at a time as cash comes available so will have to fit the same ratio as standard. Mine's an auto so it'll find it's own gear. I don't tend to do many road miles (about 600 last year) as it's cheaper to tow than drive so i might just change the low ratio gears in the transfer box. I have a couple of sets of standardish size road tyres/wheels so don't want to muck about with the high ratio gears much.
So, last thing to do is get measuring. The 32" tyres i have fitted don't fill the arches at all so i'm guessing/hoping that the 35's will be ok, just the turning circle to sort. G
Budgie:
With the ratios, the low ratio is standard across the board at 3.321:1, it's the high range that changes.
If you have a look on Ashcroft's site it will give you all the ratios available.
If it's mainly going to be use offroad then you maybe better off changing the diff ratios to 4.11:1 as this will do both high & low. If you're fitting lockers as well then maybe just get the diffs when you can afford it and fit both at the same time. :wink:
I know you would want to stick to standard diffs as they are easy to replace but, unless you can get a different set of low gears for the t-box then the standard diffs will be too over-geared for inclines and you won't have the control that you need.
greendisco123:
--- Quote from: "turtle" ---The Disco was built by Andy Gollins in Newport Pagnell Milton Keynes, it has 12" body lift and uprated suspension using pro comp shocks and springs, everything else on the motor is standard, if you look under the motor everything sits in the normal place.
Andy is well know for his monster trucks,
the one below is a range rover chassis with a S1 body shell, sporting a 5.7 small block chevy engine, with 44" Mud Plugger tyres, the axles are from a Unimog.
--- End quote ---
Do u have the number for Andy collins as i would like one like that on my drive and realy block neighbours view thanks :twisted: :twisted:
Tyke:
Lots of good info and tips again . . . as usual . . . especially from Budge.
Starting to think 33's will be an easier and much less expensive option and probably result in a far more usefull truck.
Gonna get the calculator out and do some sums . . . . :lol:
Redundancy payouts can be wondefull things - especially when a new job came along very quickly :twisted:
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