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rear a frame ball joint
colintandy:
anybody changed the rear a frame ball joint on a disco ..is it easy as it looks any advice need to change mine ! soon regards colin
Range Rover Blues:
It can be a 'stard. It rust into place in the housing. I thinnk I'd remove the whole casting from the arms, assuming you can split the taper from the axle, then take it indoors for some serious beating, sorry heating.
Mace:
Don't get me started !!! :evil:
Recently done mine on a 300 tdi. Used a pit to stand in too ! Had to remove the rear section of the exhaust.
1. The 2 bolts holding the ball joint assembly into the A-frame, rusted solid, can't cut 'em out so move on...
2. The BIG bolts holding the front a-frame to the chassis, rusted solid inside the bush. Bush is knackered too. Managed to ease the nuts out a little then sieze.
3. Take one 5" angle grinder, blade too small to get into the gap.
4. Take one 9" angle grinder and try cutting the nuts off, it works.
5. Take one 9" angle grinder and try cutting the bolts off, blade starts to cut into the a-frame.
6. Take one 5" angle grinder, grind the bolt heads down to nothing. Took forever !
7. Take one large pry-bar and open the bush mounts, eventually the a-frame drops out.
I've now got one knackered a-frame ball joint still in the a-frame, now with knackered bushes in it too.
8. Goes out and buys new bushes, ball joint and all bolts & nuts.
9. Needs to use a 10 ton press to shift the old bushes
10. Needs to use a 10 ton press to get the ball joint out, after cutting off the bolt flanges.
11. Needs to buy a special deep tube tool (Difflock but huge socket would do) to go over the ball joint to use in the 10 ton press to get the NEW ball joint in. Take all 10 tons before it pops in !!
12. Needs to use a 10 ton press to put the bushes back in.
13. Liberally applies quantities of copper-slip to stop the dam thing getting stuck again !!!
14. Swears like a trooper that it's taken so long to do and would have been impossible without a PIT, 9" ANGLE GRINDER, 10 TON PRESS and the DIFFLOCK tool.
But don't let me put you off :lol: :lol:
snezza69:
--- Quote from: "Mace" ---Don't get me started !!! :evil:
Recently done mine on a 300 tdi. Used a pit to stand in too ! Had to remove the rear section of the exhaust.
1. The 2 bolts holding the ball joint assembly into the A-frame, rusted solid, can't cut 'em out so move on...
2. The BIG bolts holding the front a-frame to the chassis, rusted solid inside the bush. Bush is knackered too. Managed to ease the nuts out a little then sieze.
3. Take one 5" angle grinder, blade too small to get into the gap.
4. Take one 9" angle grinder and try cutting the nuts off, it works.
5. Take one 9" angle grinder and try cutting the bolts off, blade starts to cut into the a-frame.
6. Take one 5" angle grinder, grind the bolt heads down to nothing. Took forever !
7. Take one large pry-bar and open the bush mounts, eventually the a-frame drops out.
I've now got one knackered a-frame ball joint still in the a-frame, now with knackered bushes in it too.
8. Goes out and buys new bushes, ball joint and all bolts & nuts.
9. Needs to use a 10 ton press to shift the old bushes
10. Needs to use a 10 ton press to get the ball joint out, after cutting off the bolt flanges.
11. Needs to buy a special deep tube tool (Difflock but huge socket would do) to go over the ball joint to use in the 10 ton press to get the NEW ball joint in. Take all 10 tons before it pops in !!
12. Needs to use a 10 ton press to put the bushes back in.
13. Liberally applies quantities of copper-slip to stop the dam thing getting stuck again !!!
14. Swears like a trooper that it's taken so long to do and would have been impossible without a PIT, 9" ANGLE GRINDER, 10 TON PRESS and the DIFFLOCK tool.
But don't let me put you off :lol: :lol:
--- End quote ---
That must have taken all of an hour!
:D
Mace:
Including tea breaks :lol:
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