Vehicle & Technical > Series Land Rovers

Series III Starting Issue

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hobbit:
Here is a unit off an rangy, basically the same as the s3, the connections are riveted, some of them are soldered on on other models, there is a small screw  on the unit to the left of the white plastic block on the gray cover, this can come loose or out and the block can twist out of line or away from the barrel

hope this helps

wetnwild:
Evening All,

I've just had my first lesson in hot wiring a car - quite interesting to be honest but doubt i'll ever use it again.

So where am I now?  Well i've taken all the connectors off the back of the lock unit, cleaned them and put them back on - one was looking to be decidedly dodgy so crimped on a new spade connector.  Still the same, nothing happening apart from the lights turning on - and now i've got another problem (more of that in a min).  I have had a look at the unit as you said in your last post hobbit and the grub screw is firmly located and wouldn't tighten anymore.  So i'm resuming that's all good.  Still Puzzled but am guessing that a trip down to the spares shop will be next in line.

The other problem - my charge light has seem to stopped bieng bright and just glows a dim red when I turn the key now.  I have made sure that all connections are tight so there isn't a reason for it to be doing what it's doing unless i've missed something else. Hints?

Ta for your help...
Nick.

hobbit:
Its starting to sound like the contacts in the electrics block are breaking down then, try spraying some electrolube or wd40 into the wire block and work the key backwards and forwards

See if it cleans the contacts up, you can hot wire the vehicle quite easily now though just need a wire from a live feed going into the bak of the barrel through a switch and back onto the red/black wire, when you flick the switch it will mimic using the key to turn the starter

obviously you will still need you keys in the lock to unlock the steering :wink:

Canada Al:
Damn this time delay . I was going to the solenoid next .  :D  Sounds like you have all the info you need now .
By the way , to bypass the solenoid you connect the two large brass ( or is it copper ) bolts with a large screwdriver . If you use a little one it will melt . you just need to touch the two at the same time for a second to hear if the motor runs . Be carefull not to weld the screwdriver to the sump or exhaust pipe  . On second thoughts don't try this at home , it does take some practice .  :shock:

CanIBeFrank:

--- Quote ---The other problem - my charge light has seem to stopped bieng bright and just glows a dim red when I turn the key now. I have made sure that all connections are tight so there isn't a reason for it to be doing what it's doing unless i've missed something else. Hints?
--- End quote ---


Is the bulb holder pushed firmly into the holder (the tube that holds the bulb and conection) if its not all the way in it may not be very bright as the light will be shining on the inside of the dash not the small ruby.

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