Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

fuel pressure regulator plumbing

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muddydigger:
Ok mate found why its not working, because i only did a temp conection when i put the loom in and it came appart so no dramas ther its running again. The car is Auto and came from an auto. the rev counter is working and i think the Alternator is as well. The wires are at the back of the engine bay running along the firewall. they come out of the loom at exactly the same point as the earthing wires on the engine block. the back fire is still evident though. not on exceleration but when backing of.

muddydigger:
Ok i may ahve solved the back fire because ther appeared to ne one to many resistors in the wiring to the coil, one which came in the new loom which i didnt realize was there and the other one which was on the coil(originally) which i left there. so now the car is running, reasnobly well but not perfect. Ill try a new set of plugs as the guy i bought it off said the car had been sitting for a long time. I have had to replace two rockers and rods as they were rooted. The engine doesnt appear to be too bad but i would like it to run aliitle better. Cant say how the fuel is at the moment though it does seem to be a little rich.

muddydigger:
Eureka!!!! I have identified the wires, they are to purge controle valve. I have gone and bought one and put it on. But has made no diffrence to it running its still a liitle rough and is backfiring any sugggestions ? thanks

muddydigger:
double Eureka! well im an idiot, I had put two spark plug leads on the wrong way. but have corrected it now. No back fire and plenty of grunt. but rich really rich.

Range Rover Blues:
Purge control valve? that should be next to the battery on the charcoal cannister.

If it's running rich it may still be in a failure mode, the hot-wire ECU is much more tolerent of faults and has many get-you-home tricks up it's sleeve in the event of a sensore failure.

You have the Haynes right? in the back (the whole bludy car is in the supliments section) there is a dead usefull check-list for the EFi system to sort out if any of the electrical gubbins are not working, have a look through it as unless you have access to Rovacom or similar (mine cost me bucket loads) then it's guesswork to know why it's rich.  You can adjust the mixture with a littl escrew on the back of the mass air flow meter (hot wire) but don't use this to cover up an underlying fault.

2 things it will be sulking about are the lack of a road speed sensor input and not knowing what gear the auto box is in (your original car wouldn't have been connected this way).  The EFi runs fast if the auto box is in drive, the air con is on or the heated front screen.  It also has an output for the electic fans in the event of excess engine temp when running and when stationary plus if the fuel gets too hot when stood.  Wish I'd known this before I wired up my fans.

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