Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover
slow starter when warm
suggs:
to be honest im no expert on all the different starters, but theres defo atleast two types the early version which is a bigger unit and a smaller later version, i have the smaller version i think its more powerfull too, as you have a 3.9 then you probley already have this one, maybe worth poping into a local specialist garage and let them have a look before you start spending money on a new item, if you ask on here someone may have a good used one that they will sell to you. i think i would try using a voltage tester to see if full power is getting to the starter, try it form cold and then from hot and see if theres a difference, could be a dodgy earth somewere, normly if i get silly problems like this and i can get it started i run it to my local landy specialst saves a lot of messing about, more oftern than not they suss it out in a few minuits and dont even charge me, its worth building up a good relasionship with them, i have over several years and several grand lol..
you could also try asking on www.lro.com you may get some other ideas there..
but from what you have said it sounds like the stater its self, cant explain why it works fine when cold though..
i use a great garage nr Romford if thats not to far for you
H
mark.yellow.series.3:
a geared starter has cogs in it to reduce the speed of the output gear thus making the starter draw less current/give higher torque. but no matter which starter you buy, it should turn your engine over reasonbly quick so it starts.
your problem could be that your alternator is not charging your battery quick enough (alternator knacked) thus after your engine has been started and the power has been drained from the battery, when you switch your engine off there isnt enough power to start it again.
or could be a faulty starter.
this is assuming youve checked the earths and the thick positive cable to the starter. remember when checking these bigger cables, to acually remove them and clean them with an emery cloth, as it could have a bad connection even though the studs are tight.
a few checks you can do.
measure the battery voltage when the car is cold and then when the car is warm (both with engine off) the voltage should be over 12volts DC in both cases. (i would expect the voltage to be higher when the car is warm)
check the charge voltage of the alternator, with the engine running after about 5 mins, check the battery voltage, (with engine running) and it should be over 13volts (i would expect 13.5 upto 14.5).
let me know what you find.
suggs:
at last the cavlery has arrived :D
Mark know's his stuff :wink:
mark.yellow.series.3:
--- Quote from: "suggs" ---at last the cavlery has arrived :D
Mark know's his stuff :wink:
--- End quote ---
well, dont know about that :oops:
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