Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover
Air surspension stopped working... and dont say "I told
Range Rover Blues:
--- Quote from: "Bush Tucker Man" ---Isn't the system linked into the interior light switches as well?, in order ascertain that it ought to be in 'Access Mode Height'?
--- End quote ---
Access mode is selected by the dash switch, you have to be in park or have the handbrake on with a manual. Opening the doors suspends any change in height, even if it's half way through. The switch under the seat provides the ecu with a 'door open' signal so it's just easier to open a door, otherwise you have to get out and grope around under the seat, heaven knows what you might find under there.
As for the height settings, yes you can modify most of them, access, low profile, standard and high. One warning, extended is automatic and it's not adviseable to have you EAS trying to blow the springs up to their limit. When I jack mine up on the chassis the air springs look like they are about to burst, then you hear air escaping.
But I reprogram the EAS for the caravan, for driving fast etc. as it costs me nothing. I might have another play this weekend :roll:
If you want more ground clearence on EAS I'd suggest longer dampers and air bag spacers with spacers on the bump stops. You can't increase the travel of the air spring but you could lift the whole lot, setting your standard and low profile the same so that on tarmac you ride as low as possible without hitting the bump stops, thatv way you don't need castor correction or a TD5 prop.
ScrumpyJack:
Ok lads, I've checked and yes it would appear to be the centre diff permanently locked :cry:
So next question, any easy and cheep way of rectifying it or am I just kidding myself.
Range Rover Blues:
It's going to be the Borg-Warner (he said, staing the obvious) so you can split the front casing off with the tT-Bpox still in the car and remove the viscous unit. You can check various bearing and that at the same time but basically if you've been happy with the running of the box then you can just swap the offending article.
Have a mooch round Ashcroft transmision's website for much more info and possibly some tips on swapping the viscous unit too.
Jonny Boaterboy:
I put a new viscous cupling on mine, L.R. quoted £3700! my local L.R. garage quoted about £500 and iI did it myself for about £390
It is all streight forward bolt on bolt off mechanics, the trickiest bit is geting the cuppling free. I had to move a cross chassie surport (8 bolts) to get it out. If you follow the manual its no problem it took me about 3 days...... but I was tacking my time. I think it said in the manual the you had to take the whole transfer box off but you dont have to you just undo the mounts surport it underneath, take the front off and then slide out the cuppling. Dont forget to get some good sealent to seal it when it goes back together.
If you need the step by step how to do it I can drop it in the post to you.
If you have a fair mechanical head on you you should have no problems at all...... I did'nt.
I used a replacement cuppling from my local L.R. garage not a L.R. genuine artical and it has been fine.
hope that helps
Jonny
ScrumpyJack:
I've checked out Ashcroft’s site and they do a same day fitting service, all in plus use of courtesy car for £388,
although I’m a confident d.i.y.er on landys it's a time thing, but on saying that I hate sending my car into someone to get the phone call saying this needs replacing and that’s a bit worn and so on,
SSoooooooooooo much to do and so little summer :cry:
Just out of interest jonny how much did your none genuine part cost.
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