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How do I build a drive?

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joe90:
Landscaper number 3 here  :lol:  got to agree with J99mud, you definatly need a sub base, and if you want to do it properly a roler of teram (or similar generic fabric) wouldnt go a miss.

Crushed conrete is usually available through your local plant hire company or even skip hire company. if your hiring a skip, they can bring you some crushed concrete when they deliver :D

landraver:

--- Quote from: "Matt_H" ---It slopes ever so slightly  but that is mostly due to extra mud in the front garden, we're not on a hill so that extra can be removed at the same time if needed. After rain, there are two bits which do get a bit soggy, two ruts basically where I used to park the car up there but then stopped. It only gets soggy where there isa dip and it's only right up by the existing drive.

The ground is really stoney, I dug a little and it's a real pain in the whatsit to get a shovel in, so wasn't sure if this negated using hard core or not..

Ta for the link,  thinking more I'd love block paving, but it scares me for some reason - it's got to be more expensive too!


I finished the wheel carrier today Jeff, cleaned up at weekend and moved the top mount for the hi-lift welding in a new mount and it's all fixed up now:-)
--- End quote ---


Lets see a pic Matt :D

landybabe:

--- Quote from: "Matt_H" ---could i not run away and you guys come and do the drive whilst i cry?
--- End quote ---


Don't you wish you'd never asked now?? :roll:  :wink:

Ohh....to have enough money to pay somebody.....anybody!!  :cry:  :cry:

Matt_H:
well.. I am glad I did as it gave me some things to thnk about.. whilst thinking about them an engineer friend who frequents these parts worked out no only the pressure per square inch a fully loaded landy would exert on the ground but also shear values of mud, compacted soil, mortar and all sorts of other things.

I'm not going to publish the conclusion he gave as it's scientifically confidential.

Needless to say the plan is as follows (after digging a test hole about 10 inches deep - the make up was 1-2 inches of top soil and grass, 3 to 4 inches of the nastiests rocky soil you have ever seen, so much so that it took about 5 minutes to dig 1 shovel sq!  after that is clay, clay clay.  I also checked with the wife, the back garden is clay after 6 or so inches too)

plan:
1) dig first patio area (hard standing for bins and motorcycle etc), dig down to clay level
2) sift all soil and return all rocks and other hard debris to make a thin layer of hard stuff
3) compact said hard stuff with anything to hand (small children for example_
4) lay patio on mortar then point next day

Test and see what happens, then do second land rover part in similar manner if all well.

I've decided that a little bit of sinkage if it happens "adds character"

I'll post back in 1year when I;ve got around to it, 2 years to let you know the state and 3 years to let you know if you really should put in a thick base.

Matthew

way2deep:
groundworker no1  :D we always use a layer of type 1 whether concrete finish or slabbing....just me pennies worth :D would'nt even consider slabbing a drive way tho....block paving is nice or concrete is the only way to go

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