Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Clutch problem

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defninety:
Have you checked the adjustment of the master cylinder rod in the pedal box?  If you remove the pedal box cover under the clutch fluid reservoir there is an adjustable rod which the pedal is attached to.  
The locking nut can come loose and work its way up the rod.  This gives you the symptom you describe with the bite point right and the end of the pedal travel.  Its a 5 min job to check and adjust.

wing nut:
six bolts one spring one pipe ,pedal box out, in the vice undo six screws two lock nuts ,two nut and bolts and remove ..buy new master cylinder about 15 quid and reverse process and bleed system .... aprox time 1 hour :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

wing nut:
heres some pictures ,i found it much easier removeing the peddle box as there is a nut and bolt below very difficult to access  :lol:

Ollie:
If your going to replace the master, then replace the slave at the same time, they always go within a few weeks of each other. Slave's are cheap and easy to replace.

Ollie

Legionnaire:
I have had problems on both my landies clutches recently and was given the following advise on bleedingv which worked well, I will pass it on even though I am sure I am trying to educate the already initiated.

Dont bother with the pipe on the slave cylinder or the glass jar as in the Haynes manual. Put a spanner on the bleed niple, get somebody to pump the clutch slowly three times and on the last stroke hold it to the floor. Quickly slacken and retighten immediately the bleed nipple, this blasts the air out. Then continue this process. The clutch will eventually lift higher and higher back to normal.

Andrew

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