Vehicle & Technical > Defender
200 TDI injector pump
drmike:
I have had a growing problem with the turbo boost kicking in later and later and suddenly – as if a switch had been turned on. Now the boost fails to happen at all. I have checked all the usual suspects leaks etc.
Anyway after much looking I took the top off the boost pump and exposed the diaphragm. I pressed down on it and it didn’t move to the extent that I wondered if it went up not down! One mighty shove later and it suddenly gave way and moved. It felt like something was gummed up if you know what I mean and gave way under pressure. Not a snap but like pulling a sticky toffee off a chair.
I haven’t taken the diaphragm off yet as I’m not sure how to do that.
What’s the probable cause?
I’m hoping to find some build up of gunk somewhere
I fear it’s the injector pump failing
Any ideas?
Mike
Porny:
Mike,
Sorry I haven't replied to your email via difflock.... been having a few computer problems.....
Various causes....
Will take a while to write this post.... will be right back
Ian
drmike:
Ian
I have made considerable progress.
The diaphragm was clearly sticking, it took considerable force to make it move downwards so the poor old boost pressure would have struggled.
To me this implies the rod attached to teh diaphragm is probably rusted or in some way dirty.
I have applied copious WD40 and it now moves freely but won't come out.
I think it might work now but ...
I think the reason it won't come off is because the rod it is meant to operate is seized and is trapping the taper against itself.
Therefore I think my problem is freeing off teh rod the tapered end bears against.
Deep breath. I further believe I can get at this thing via a hex headed bolt that hides behind the throttle arm which has all the springs and things on it. I have been advised I must be very careful to mark the throttle arm before I remove it - although I have no idea why.
I am hoping that if I leave evrything soaking in such WD40 as I can get in there it may free off in the morning.
I'm learning! I really need to get this done by Sunday as I have a trial then.
Mike
Porny:
I’d agree….
By the sounds of it the operating pin that slides onto the concentric shape of the diaphragm is partially seized (which does happen)...
If you lift up the rubber section of the diaphragm, copious amounts of WD40 should help.
Then you ‘should’ be able to gently ‘work’ the diaphragm out.
The pin….
--- Quote --- Deep breath. I further believe I can get at this thing via a hex headed bolt that hides behind the throttle arm which has all the springs and things on it. I have been advised I must be very careful to mark the throttle arm before I remove it - although I have no idea why.
--- End quote ---
Not sure about that… see pic:
Pin is part no: 4
This cannot be removed without stripping more of the pump down.
drmike:
I see what you mean about getting at that pin. Maybe I misunderstood the advice I was given.
Is M1 and pivot that lets 3 move 4?
I need to free off 4 - well at least I think that's the case as I think 4 is stuck and won't let me withdraw the rod as it is trapping the taper.
What lubricates the innards of the bits around M1?
To quote the advice I was given:
'Basically you need to remove the throttle lever, after marking EXACTLY where it is, then in the body of the pump, there is an allen key bolt head. Remove this and squish wd40 into the hole and work the lever inside back and forth. You will need the diaphragm out for this.'
I can see the pretty large allen key bolt head but looking at your diagram it's not clear to me where it fits in!
My issue for now is that the diaphragm won't come out but I'm hoping that WD40 and plus gas will work their way down there.
Many thanks for the picture it was justw aht I was looking for and couldn't find.
I'm learning but I'd really like to fix it!
Mike
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