Vehicle & Technical > Discovery

Extra Fuseboxes

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ChrisW:
I'd be inclined to solder a bit of copper bar on with a bolt at one end for bolting the feed cable on - you can tidy it up with a bit of paint then -
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9065

s.stirley:
I ripped one out of the boot of a Rover 800 in a scrapyard, it had two 30A feeds so wasn't too bad to rig up to the main battery feed. I've got 5A for in-car computer, 10A for accessory feeds 30A for spots, 5A for CB etc etc

TimM:

--- Quote from: "RedlineMike" ---
25 amp for reverse lights 2x 55w

--- End quote ---


 :shock:

<mental note> don't follow Mike at night

Jimbo:
There's a really nice modular fuse/relay box in VXP's catalogue, pg 19 - but by the time you've bought the base, the cover, the modular inserts etc, it all adds up to a fair few beer tokens.

I'm going down the 'remove one from a breaker' route for the extra wiring in the 110 - if I'm lucky it won't cost a bean !

Jim

Darren:

--- Quote from: "Damo" ---Whilst in the process of moving things over to the split charged battery I could really do with a 8 way fusebox with a common buzbar.  The fuseboxes ive seen only have individual spades on each side which means I have to run about 6-8 wires from the battery terminal :( rather than a big juicy cable to the fusebox for splitting out down the bar.

Ive checked on vwp, but I cant see anything like 8 way with a buzbar.
--- End quote ---


Damain,

I used the modular fuse and relay boxes from VWP for my wiring. I found that the individual spades (they're not spades really, more like flat sockets) for the fuses come supplied on a metal strip, from which they can be snapped off. However, the spacing along the strip is exactly the same as the spacing in the holder so I left them attached and soldered a big wire to the strip to take a feed from the battery. It's worked perfectly like that for nearly four years.

Hope this helps.

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