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Front shocks

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Jonny Boaterboy:
I have a 1994 Range Rover with air suspension, I have got stearing wheel shake/wobble when I go over bumps at speed or round a bend. I have put an old man emu stearing damper on and tightened the pr-tensioner on the swivel housing. (maybe not enough!) both of which have reduced the shake/wobble but not got rid of it. My next line of attack is the dampers. Which brings me to my question... which make/type do you think I should go for? Old man emu, de carbon and Bilstein are top choice at the moment with pro comp a close second. I'm seting the Range Rover up for semi serious off road ability but it is also my every day car. Should I be going for gas, oil, mono or twins and which are the best quality that will last a long time.

Thanks alot

Jonny

Sharpshooter:
I had a similar problem with my 110. I changed the Panhard rod bushes and bolts today, and it has stiffened up my steering and suspension.

P.S. The panhard rod goes between the axle and the chassis, to stop the axle moving sideways. (If you didnt know) :D

Xtremeteam:
you say pretensioner? did you remove some shimd from the top of the swivel pin??

if so yes it will have tightened up the swivels BUT if the bearings have never been changed it could be them on there way out thats giving you the slack in the first place

IMHO Fit a decarbon steering damper then fit pro comp es9000 shocks allround,cheap & have alifetime gurantee for the length of time you own the motor (dads just got a waranty claim on a rear shock for his 110 3 years after buying them)  :wink:

Range Rover Blues:
I'd agree with the pro-comps, unfortunately they don't do a steering damper it seems but Explorer can supply a Gabriel unit that's bl**dy good.  I find the DeCarbon pressurised tends to bias the steering a little, otherwise it's a nice damper.

Check you've done the steering swivels properly, there are 2 different specs depending on the year and the Haynes manual only covers the earlier ABS type, not the later, as the Haynes was last changed in 1990 it seems.  Anyway, if you have the ABS type axles then you have Railko type bushes at the top, if these are worn you can't adjust the play out of them like you can with twin taper rollers.  Of course the bottom taper roller is retained.
You need to drop the steering links and feel how smooth the steering is at the knuckle, if it's at all lumpy you may need new bearings, then check the torque required to turn the knuckle (after the initial force required to move if) it's 45-65ft/lbs on the 1990 model, that's a lot.  It's lower on later cars but I can't remember how much.

Again this won't cure a worn out Railko bush.

Budgie:

--- Quote from: "Range Rover Blues" ---I'd agree with the pro-comps, unfortunately they don't do a steering damper it seems but Explorer can supply a Gabriel unit that's bl**dy good.
--- End quote ---


Ummm - they do!  :P  ES2000 for a RRC upto 94 are £30. :mrgreen:


Jonny,
What about the wheel bearings, have you checked them for play?
I've found this to be the cause of many a steering wheel wobble.  :wink:

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