Vehicle & Technical > Series Land Rovers

Need advice about changing brakes on series

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Jake:

--- Quote from: "Stanton Boy" ---Another way is to fit range rover axles like mine, however it isn't a straight forward conversion.  But the advantages are obvious, 25% differance in the diffs, 6" wider which has improved the stability, and disc brakes all round.
--- End quote ---


So whats involved in swapping the axles?
Is it a big job?

dave_2A_2.25Turbo:
Take a pair of RaRo axles

Grind everything off the case

Cut the spring seats off a pair of series axles

Weld said seats onto RaRo axles at correct spacing and angle

Bolt to Series Landy

Simple - or it would be if it wasn't for the angle bit.  I think you have to put a spacer under the seat (possibly to make up for the material lost through cutting.

If you do a search, there's details on several sites.

You'll need to fit a servo anyway (discs rubbish without) so why not do that first - I have and the difference is amazing

dave_2A_2.25Turbo:
BTW - I think theree's issues about the steering linkage as well.

Zeus and Chris Perfect  do Bolt on kits, but they're far from cheap

Miniman:
I have britpart brakes and cylinders on my series 3. not had any problems at all they have been fit since march this year. I think some of you have just been unlucky. Looks like you got friday afternoon brakes....eg time to go home hurry up.... :lol:
Also I get mud in the brakes ALOT.... :twisted:

cstokes:
As Dave 2a turbo said you cut all the brakets off of the rr axles, you either cut off the spring seats from the series axles or fabricate some new ones. Welding the seats back onto the rr axles (will have to grind the o/s front one because of the angle of the diff.  Now the rear axle is a doddle to fit just measure the distances etc: to ensure you have the axle in the correct position then weld the spring platformes onto the rr axles, you and position the rear diff at any angle you want but i would suggest that you position it tyhe same as the series as if you incline it like an rr it puts the prop at the wrong angle which causes it to vibrate when you back off the throttle.
Now the front one is complicated, The fitting of the spring platforms is the same the rear, there is several ways of getting the rear steering link to fit, one is to cut and weld it to clear the springs and the diff (frankly not my choice), Two remove the rear drag link, fit it with rose joints, get a left hand drive o/s swivel housing and fit the drag link at the front of the axle (expensive). Three is to incline the diff so the drag link clears the springs, but be careful as if you incline the diff to much it causes the front prop to hit the engine mounting on braking and also causes the prop to bind up on braking. The way around this is to either get special props made up (expensive), put spacers between the spings and the spring seats (lowering the vehicle by approx 1"), or by lifting the body and the engine 2".   Oh nearly forgot don't incline the diff to far or it puts the castor angle to far out and the vehicle the doesn,t self centre the steering and tramlines on the road.  Hope this helps.

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