Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

Cutting out

<< < (2/3) > >>

Landy90IOM:
ive heard of this kind of problem before, and it turned out to be the ECM.  could be worth having a look into that too if all else fails

Budgie:
Just a thought but, does it have an immobiliser fitted?

Could be faulty and arming itself?
Although you normally get ignition lights with one of those, even when armed.  :-k

The Fat Controller:
as THERMODORTHELOBSTER said "it sounds like an earth problem" and you will probably find its the earth stap from the battery where it bolts to the chassis down by the steering box,the easyest way to prove it is to use a "jump lead" from the battery negative teminal to the engine as a temporary earth,if the car them starts and lights work you have proved an earth fault exists.the cure is a new earth strap with a new bolt through a clean chassis

forkarm:
hiya, i had one last month with a similar problem.i traced the problem down to the fuse links in the wiring harness.if you follow the harness out of the bulkhead toward the battery you will notice a bulge in the harness with a braided sheath.slit this open and give the wires inside a good tug.with a bit of luck one (or two ) will come apart and you will see the corrosion on the ends of the wires.hope this helps.

Garth:
Thanks for the advice folks however the gold star goes to Budgie!! (I think).

Went out today and drove around aimlessly with everything electric on and off on and off till found I could make it cut out switching main beam on and off. Leave for a few minutes and ingnition lights came back on. Away we went.  Did this several times just to make sure.

Drove home and stared at the Haynes wiring diagrams for an hour.

In I went , column shroud and footwell plastic removed, checked ignition switch = 12 volts where it should be.  So left ticking over with everyting switched on switching from main to dipped continuusly and it stopped, dived in with multimeter and 12 volts at ignition switch (swear words were issued).

Back to manual!!  (You need wiring digram to follow the next bit).
No voltage at tacho
No Voltage at Headlamp relay
No ABS Lamp
ETC ETC

SO traced ignition on wire back (the big white one) and found (to cut a long story short) that it was wired via the alarm/imobiliser ran a new wire in parrallel with alarm with an inline 10 amp fuse and power was restored.  HURRAY.

Left on tick over switched a few things on and OK.

Went for main beam and my inline fuse blew. BOO

Put a 30 amp fuse in and took out for a run as above and so far everthing appears OK but my inline fuse is getting hot (but not blowing).

QUESTION.

I have a multimeter. How do I measure and what current should I expect on this wire (it is approx 2.5 mm).  

From previous comments I dont think my alarm/imobilser should have been wired in this way.

I hope this makes sence to someone

Garth

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page