Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover
body lift
keithdixon:
do you have a price for the bits for an 84 rr classic 5 door
& what bits are included (and excluded) to do the job
rgs
keith dixon
Wolfie_:
I ummed and ared for quite a while before actualy doing the lift(about 18 months and 3 rangies later)
But after helping a freind do his I decided to bite the bullet and do it.
the worst part and most time consuming part of the job had to be undoing all the nuts and bolt that had never been undone since new. Once that was done I had no problems. I used one hi-lift jack to raise the body. It was very simple to do, once all the bolts were undone(10 bolts hold the shell down and 4 bolts tie the rear seat belt mount and front floor to the chassis ) I put the jack under the sill just in front of the front door and jacked it up high enough to get most of the spacers in on one side, I then had to put the jack under the rear just to lift enough to get the very rear spacer in, I then repeated this on the other side.The main problems you come across is that you cant just put longer bolt through the holes, you have to remove the bushes and put the bolts through at an angle and then resettle the bushes back into place (sounds worse than it is to do ,when doing it you'll find it easier to picture what i mean)the only two bolts I couldn't put back in were the two rear ones as there is just not enough room so I put these up from the bottom but all were secured with nylock nuts so shouldn't be a problem.The only problem Ive encountered is that mines got a manual gearbox and the clutch pipe is a bit tight and could do with being replaced with a longer one.which ever side you do first you need to take the bolts out other wise they catch and the chassis lifts as well, leave the other sides bolts in so that the shell cant move side ways and extreme but possibly fall off the chassis.When we did my friends he used a hi-ab crane and as he picked up the shell it swung sideways by about 6" so I recommend leaving in some bolts.put one spacer and bolt in at a time and once through put the nut on just a couple of turns and it will stop you displacing the spacers if you need to lift a bit more.Don't forget to unclip your bumper end caps from the body and once the lift is complete loosen all the steering uj bolts and wiggle the steering wheel abit and then tighten the bolts back up.there are several floor supports that need some blocks and you need to drill two new holes for the top radiator mounts and thats about it. I had mine done for several months now and I use it as my daily drive and have had no problems what so ever and last weekend went greenlaning with no problems at all. hope that helps any more questions please ask or if anything isn't to clear in my description please ask
Ian
As for the kit you need 10 spacers + 4 extended tie bolts and you will also need to get some 10 3/8 unf x 6"(for 2" lift)
Wolfie_:
--- Quote from: "Grunter" ---Have been looking at doing this myself, mines got auto box so no worries there but anyone know what front brake pipes will do, i have some pro comp +4" shocks and +2" hd springs waiting to be fitted and with the body lift as well want to make sure they will be long enough, mines the twin pipe per caliper variety
--- End quote ---
You will need to change your brake pipes for longer ones or relocate your pipes lower down
Grunter:
relocate the pipes it is then!!
i picked up 10 3/8 unf x 6" bolts today but they only have about 1" of thread, is this enough or should i cut the thread further before i start the job, dont really want to be adding packing if i can help it.
Sharpshooter:
--- Quote from: "Grunter" ---relocate the pipes it is then!!
i picked up 10 3/8 unf x 6" bolts today but they only have about 1" of thread, is this enough or should i cut the thread further before i start the job, dont really want to be adding packing if i can help it.
--- End quote ---
What are you making the rest of the kit from?
I have found the polypropelyne ones the best.
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