Whine

[Merlin]

I've got a whine from my front end, slowly getting worse.  Checked inner & outer wheel bearings, all OK & there is no play on the prop. UJ's.
It's there on drive but not on over-run, also there is a vibration that you can feel in the steering wheel(very slight), also just on drive & not over-run. Anyone any ideas?  The only thing I can think it could be is the diff. area.  
Ah!, what wonderful things RRC's are (but I still wouldn't change it)
Cogs

[jimbob]

Sounds to me like tke bearings in the diff are on their way out.
Had the same thing on my Disco.
Easier to just get another diff to drop in.

[Xtremeteam]

had the same thing on the racer goin to the event on sat & turned out the nut holding the diff flange on was coming loose,only discovered what it was when the prop came off & bashed into most things underneath

[Range Rover Blues]

Well the diff would be a good suspect but often it's difficult to track down the source of a noise because the transmision passes the noise upwards so everything sounds like it's the gearbox!

Does the vibration make the steering wheel shimy (left and right) or shake up and down?  If it shimy's then it's possibly not the diff, if it just shakes then the diff is again favourite but also check the CV joints and their bearings, bend half shafts and loose wheel bearings, swivels and track rod balljoints, honest.

[Merlin]

It's not a strong vibration & there is no side/side steering wander. The st/wheel just vibrates a bit  but only on pulling, that's why I dis-counted wheel bearings.
When I got the motor the whine was there a bit & as I said, it's steadily but slowly getting worse.  I had all the wheel bearings out & that made no difference.
It's the whine I am worrying about, I recon the vibe. is caused by it.
 Will check all TRE's etc. & report back.
Cogs

[Range Rover Blues]

The vibe in the wheel can also be caused by a slight misfire, or lack of balance in the engine, a prop being out of true or play in the transmission so be careful, you could be trying to fix 2 problems at once.  The whine could well be the diff, but could also be the T-Box as the noise will tend to transmit along the (sorry for the pun) transmission.

Is it a 10 sline diff? if so I'd swap that first as it's a relatively cheap part S/H (I have some spares if you are nearby) and see what happens.

BTW, what motor do you have?  A simple test for the vibration, speed up in 4th to get the vibe and change into 5th, does it continue?  Do you only get it in 1 gear?  I have this too and have decided it's not the axle.

[Merlin]

RRB, thanks for the diff offer but Newcastle is a l-o-n-g way from Sheffield.  A local yard has just got a "new" RRC in to brake, I will price a diff off him.  Question, are both front & back ones the same?, if so & I have to take one out myself, which is the best one to get or do they both suffer the same amount of wear?--Cogs

[Wanderer]

The vibe in the wheel can also be caused by a slight misfire, or lack of balance in the engine, a prop being out of true or play in the transmission so be careful, you could be trying to fix 2 problems at once.  The whine could well be the diff, but could also be the T-Box as the noise will tend to transmit along the (sorry for the pun) transmission.

Is it a 10 sline diff? if so I'd swap that first as it's a relatively cheap part S/H (I have some spares if you are nearby) and see what happens.

BTW, what motor do you have?  A simple test for the vibration, speed up in 4th to get the vibe and change into 5th, does it continue?  Do you only get it in 1 gear?  I have this too and have decided it's not the axle.

Are you still getting this even with the TD5 prop Andy?

Ed

[Range Rover Blues]

Ed, yes I am but I'm sure it's not the prop.  Having burned out a valve or two in the past I think it's rather similar :o

BTW Ed I have picked up another TD5 prop which I'm going to get modified (the right length this time).  How are you getting on with yours?

Cogs, yes they are the same, I don't know which one wears the worst other than to say that the rear is more likely to have run dry, the casing may be porous due to rust and the hubs do tend to leak whereas the front axle is always covered in a protective layer of oil :lol: and the swivels have decent oil seals.  Add to that the drive side of a front diff is the overun side of the rear, if it's well worn you could end up trading noise on one for noise on the other.  If you know what you're doing you can measure the backlash before you buy, otherwise see if you can drive it first.

Do check that it has the proper filler plug as this helps identify the later diff with metric bearings.