Vehicle & Technical > Defender
front UJ
davidlandy:
on the front prop the angles are at 45deg so as to stop binding unlike the rear prop that is set in line
if u try to put it back in line the splines on the prop are a very very tight fit.
I think that I have found acontributor to the problem - my front diff is knocking ! and has a lot of backlash, I suspect that its gotta a problem inside so I am on the look out for another, anyone got a 24 spliner laying about?
Range Rover Blues:
I can't find anybody who can give me a sensible explanation as to why LR fitted the UJs out of 'phase' with each other, but they did. I'd always recomend lining them up, I know what you mean about the splines getting very stiff though, there isn't supposed to be a master spline but I think it's the Shellack coating that normally runs in the void (breather spline) that hasn't worn away, if you get it ouot of place the splines seem to lock up completely.
Anyway, that doesn't help you does it? I don't think the lift is the problem, not on the front, the UJ angle doesn't change and if you fit QT arms then it actaullu does less work. That said there is the 'pulsing' that we talk about regualrly but I'd expect that to trash the top UJ which is doing all the bending.
Vibrations form the diff, hmmmmmm, could be, if it's throwing the prop out of balance.
Going back to what Budgie said, try fitting the bearing cups with a little 'stud n bearing fit' to keep them still in the yolks, just in case.
BTW, when you say they are failing, what exactly is failing? is it the needles that are collapsing or the races on the spider? Is it the thrust washers on the ends of the spider's arms?
I'm going to assume you grease regulalry :wink:
davidlandy:
the failure was that one bearing cup split around the circumference near the top - the needles inside were all mashed up together but i cannot say whether this happened before or after the cup cracking.
I still have the bits so I might take some piccys so we can all play a game of Quincy!
Range Rover Blues:
PLease do, there shouldn't be space for the needles to move about at all so perhaps the outer race is flexing in the yolk causing it to crack.
Hey I know what, try fitting a s**te un-branded part from a dodgy motor-factor's, might make all the difference :?
Range Rover Blues:
Does it always break in the same yolk? try marking it with paint to see. If it's the yolk on the flange you could swap the flange for a spare one.
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