Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: John Clayton on March 15, 2008, 17:18:32
-
Right then Muddy Funsters,
Here's some gen on the world's longest, slowest and most tortuous repair of a Discovery (or so it feels). I hope to update this regularly with new info on the project.
Also, I'm new to this game so a number of things will probably be put to you, the jury, for decision.
To set the scene, here's a description of the vehicle:
VEHICLE SPEC
White 1994 Land Rover Discovery 300 Tdi
[R380 Gearbox] 3 door
Main use is weekend green-laning with road trips to get to the venues
Standard propshaft at rear
Front propshaft came adrift and broke off last time vehicle was driven (apparently from a poorly executed suspension lift)
3 Inch lift Kit (yellow springs)
Shock Absorbers: Delphi ‘De Carbon Performance’
Serial numbers: V45 3884 23 & V45 3883 23 [orange in colour]
Dislocation Cones.
Rebel Steering Guard.
Famous Four Steel, Tie Rod Guard.
JFT Rear Bumper
JFT Front Winch Bumper.
JFT Rock Sliders.
Fuel tank guard (bar grille)
T –Max 12000 Winch + Remote. (Possibly Used 5 times Max.)
Mach 5 Wheels [no factory website found]
http://www.forgetec4x4.co.uk/ [these don’t look quite the same]
5 x Brand New Bronco Grizzly Claw Tyres (Dec 2005).
http://www.bronco4x4.com
Diff Guards: Standard on front, QT soon to be fitted on rear
Safari Snorkel.
Heavy Duty Winch Battery,
New Alternator
New Starter Motor
Drivers Seat Converted to Range Rover. Original Still Here.
All Carpets Removed Floor Heavily painted,
Rear Shelving System For Extra Storage, (Made From 25mm Foamex)
New brake Pads
New Prop Joints
New Hand Brake Drum + Shoes
All New Track Rod Ends
New Steering Bars
STD Spare Wheel But Shod With Grizzly Claw Tyre
-
A 3" lift caused the front prop to break :shock:
-
The current plan is to re-install the gearbox (now fixed after the prop came adrift, flailed and knocked a hole in it)
G/box case was professionally welded and the internals inspected
Ordered a Britpart clutch but then was persuaded otherwise by you lot:
http://www.mud-club.com/forum/index.php/topic,56749.msg503957.html#msg503957
so have sent it back and paid the extra for an AP (Borg and Beck) -just waiting for it to arrive.
Have also waited 2 weeks for Mark of Discoparts to get back off sick leave and give me a quote -not happy with their slow service or the fact that only he knows the price of the parts and he is reportedly the boss so cannot take it up with anyone else there :|
-
Yes, the 3" lift presumably took the standard prop to the point where it was either binding or just generally at too severe an angle, and it let go at the gearbox end.
I'm going for a wide angle front prop this time (I hope a standard rear prop will still be OK) and lowering it to 2" so that Castor correction etc. not necessary, as discussed here:
http://www.mud-club.com/forum/index.php/topic,31283.msg303804.html#msg303804
-
How much is the wide angle prop then?
It's not what I would suggest but I guess without castor correction you may be ok :-k I'd almost expect a standard gearbox UJ to wear out quickly with that much lift, but you were unlucky if it actually let go :-o
-
Well, I have to nominate www.discoparts.com for the 'Worst customer service award 2008'. Mark (boss of Discoparts) and I initially talked through my order at length and he promised to get back to me by the next day. However, he then took on a 2nd job (for which he could ill afford the time, apparently) and was away from Discoparts nearly all the time. None of his employees were allowed to quote a price on anything (so therefore can't sell it!), and I left countless messages for him over 3-4 weeks. I never got called back once (although I was promised 'he will get back to you in a couple of days' so many times). Completely useless -and very rude, frankly. [-X They have effectively ceased trading as far as I can tell.
I don't need to be messed about by people, especially when I'm trying to give them 100s of pounds of trade!
I then went to Peter of Exeter 4x4 who was a lot better. The following was ordered:
4x Britpart springs (to lower it from 3" to 2"
Wide angle front propshaft £132.00 plus vat
P Gasket for water pump P gasket £2.78 plus vat (genuine metal one!)
Steering drag link
Auxiliary drive belt £6.77 plus vat.
2x Front wheel bearings
QT rear diff guard
Prop joints (GKN £6.83 each plus vat)
Rear a frame balljoint (adjustable one at £16.50 all plus vat)
Service kit inc Engine oil
-
Well, I have to nominate www.discoparts.com for the 'Worst customer service award 2008'.
well that isnt really fair Neat40 as i already have a garage awaiting the said award !!!
can we have a thread for "garages that dont give a donkeys excrement "
-
have to say one thing,
they saw you coming :lol: :lol:
-
Here's a question, then:
If you want to avoid corrosion you've got to jetwash the mud off the underneath after an off-roading day, but this could blast the grease out of the bearings e.g. prop UJs (Catch 22). How do you guys deal with this?
Anyone tried Waxoyl, Dinitrol or http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/ for rust-proofing?
-
The ujs are sealed to stop crud getting in. Once you have washed all the mud off give each uj a squirt of grease.
wizard :twisted:
-
Wizard is right, washing is the first half of the job, LR like to be oiled and greased regulalry if they get abused.
-
This is a family site :roll:,Andy what you and your good lady do in the quiet as nothing to do with us :lol:. Oh sorry your on about the landy. I'll get my coat and go now i just couldn't resist it.
-
Sorry for forgetting about this blog, but I'll get it going again now.
To catch up with things, the following has happened:
The Britpart clutch that was sent back got lost in the post so that wasted about £80. Andy, the chap who was doing the work, sent it back normal post (i.e. not recorded) so I'm not sure if I'll even be able to get any compensation.
I then ordered some parts from DISCOPARTS.
The brake shoes were sent separately to the rest of the order and some random punter at my workplace (4000 people there) apparently signed for the parcel (stupid courier should have been more careful) and so they disappeared. Dozens (if not Scores) of unanswered calls to resolve the problem eventually got a replacement parcel sent free of charge sorted but Mark Casey (DISCOPARTS) is definitely quite unprofessional as a trader in my experience and I would recommend going to somewhere less 'two-bit' to be honest. I should have seen the writing on the wall with their earlier awful customer service (see earlier in this blog) so I've got only myself to blame.
Then Andy said that the newly welded up (and internally inspected) gearbox only worked in several gears, to my dismay. I put loads of time into sourcing another 2H box until he realised weeks later that he had connected the linkage up wrongly. It now drives but the change is very stiff 'cos he put some random oil in it rather than the proper stuff. He did a service on the vehicle but it lacks power, I'm told. He didn't get round to charging the battery and that is now u/s, although I think it was too far gone by the time he got involved anyway to be honest. Andy changed the springs to lower it from 3" to 2" but reckoned that it didn't look any different from before. I hope he's wrong 'cos Exeter 4x4 sold me the springs specifically to lower it and they had a full spec of the vehicle to calculate its weight and the necessary spring poundage./length
Andy is no longer able to work on the vehicle so there is another guy who has taken it on called Tommo who is a real enthusiast and seems very good from what I've seen. His communication is regular and he's proactive and industrious so I think he will get 'The Landy Project from Hell' back on track if anyone can!
The side exit exhaust needs replacing but the new exhaust is stainless and we haven't got TIG kit to weld it so it'll have to be a normal exhaust -is that likely to be vulnerable compared to side exit types?
Next jobs are batteries, split charge system, welding, fitting exhaust, changing diff + gbox oil & getting it MOTd.
-
I would get that gearbox oil sorted asap if it's being driven. If he's put something like EP90 in there instead of ATF or MTF then it could wreck the gearbox internal oil pump!! ;)
You should be OK with the standard exhaust tail, although it maybe worth cutting the end back a wee bit as mine got squashed.
-
Well the gearbox oils are now changed for the correct ones. I have now fitted the new exhaust which sounds great. The car seems quite sluggish in the lower revs, especially when cold. It seems very reluctant to pick up but is ok when the turbo kicks in, Any ideas?
-
It's been off the road for some time. I think you'll find giving it some heavy use will make a big difference really quickly.
Mine gets used infrequently these days, and when I do get to take it out it always feels a bit sleepy, but after some heavy right foot treatment its soon back to normal.
Fresh fuel might help too - have you changed the filters?
-
If it still feels sluggish after that then maybe look into altering the position of the diaphragm on the injector pump to give you a bit more fuel (assuming that's not been done already ;) ).
-
Anyone tried Waxoyl, Dinitrol or http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/ for rust-proofing?
Had mine done at www.rustmaster.co.uk just before Christmas.
The steel bits that I can see all appear to be nicely protected. There are a couple of downsides: now when you work on the vehicle you get covered in black muck; some of the mist settled on the paintwork and had to be polished off.
The main point I'm not sure about is whether all the insides of the box sections, doors etc are indeed properly protected. They do aim to do inside everything but let's face it, the only way I'll find out if it worked is when the car doesn't go rusty in several years' time.
One other thought; if they'd done inside the door sections then surely the windows would pick up a layer of waxoyl when they are wound up and down... they don't...?
-
A number of spots of welding are due to be tackled now -"the more you look, the more you find", Tommo says!
Anyone know how hard it is to change a windscreen motor? The current one is shot.
Hoping to put it in for MOT within a couple of weeks
-
I don't suppose its much fun as it must be a dash out job. Fairly straightforward on the racer with little in the way of dash!
Its a pity I've just sold s/h wiper motor you could've had!
H
-
Wiper motor is relatively easy, accessed from under the bonnet.
Take the wiper arms off, the plastic trim under the bottom of the windscreen then a few large philips screws and the plate with the motor bolted to it lifts out - probably the most fiddly part is getting to a couple of the screws and the flying ground lead thats in the drip tray below the windscreen.
Going from memory that is... ymmv :roll:
-
There you go - shows how many I've had to change, then! Its always a bit misleading working on a stripped out racer!
-
Thanks for the advice guys.
We had the vehicle out at this event 3 months ago:
http://www.abingdon4x4festival.com/
and it went very well, but it had 2 problems:
1. There was a lot of clunking whenever we went round a corner (several marshals told us it was knackered CV joints)
2. The new serpentine belt got chewed up because the alternator pulley was well loose on its shaft so it was pulled at an angle by the belt's tension. This then meant that the belt was getting rubbed by the edge lip on the pulley.
Nigel, Stevie and I had a sesh on the vehicle yesterday and changed the CV joints + tightened up the alternator's pulley. The latter job was really hard -we had to remove the alternator, put it in a vice, jam the core from turning by wedging a screwdriver in and then we took the pulley off by using a huge torque bar on its centre nut. We then reassembled it with WD40 on the thread, but I was stunned by how much torque I had to put on with this huge bar to get the pulley tight against the shaft. It was only when I was pulling as hard as I possibly could (with Stevie holding the bench to keep it still!) that we got it tight enough that the pulley wasn't able to spin on the shaft. Is this normal?
We also snapped one of the front brake pipes (the short rigid pipe that goes into the caliper) -anyone got any ideas where I can get a new (or secondhand) pipe from that will be the right shape/end fittings? I looked on Paddock's website but they didn't appear to have anything.
Also, the battery bracket is missing on this vehicle -nothing on Paddock's site or eBay -anyone got any ideas?
-
The brake pipes are just normal short brake pipes with ends aren't they?
I may have some suitable short lengths that I made up as spares before we went fully flexi on the front end of the racer, that I could spare. Sadly my brake flaring tool got stolen out of the van last year so I can't just make some up.
Otherwise most motor factors should be able to make them for you off the shelf. Or buy a roll of brake pipe some ends and a flaring tool and do it yourself. Flaring tool is a useful investment if you are into playing with cars anyway.
H
-
Re: battery bracket. Dead easy couple of lengths of M6 or M8 threaded rod and a length of small angle iron should sort it out I would imagine.
Battery bracket is really vital if you are going off road. Very easy to crack battery if you are bouncing around!
-
Battery straps aren't difficult - just go to your local Motorworld and buy a length of perforated metal strip, it already has holes drilled so you simply have to cut it to length and bolt it in. I've had one of these for ages as the original strap wouldn't fit the non-genuine parts battery.
-
We're having another go at fitting the new brake pipe tonight but the old brake pipe nut is seized in (the pipe snapped off leaving the pipe's threaded collar in place). The collar is pretty much rounded off so I'm hoping Nigel can work his magic with a special removal tool to get it out!
-
Had a great sesh with these guys last weekend:
Landy was great and the lads who helped me restore it (not to mention the wife) got loads of driving as a 'thank you'.
We got 2 punctures in the last few minutes of the day :'( but thanks to Steve (one of the Club organisers) for lending me his spare wheel and generally helping us get mobile again.
Next job is to look at Ground Anchors cos I'm shipping the vehicle to the Falklands (got 2 months At Her Majesty's Pleasure down there). There are no trees to winch off cos it's too windy for em to grow in the Falklands!
Any advice on Ground Anchors would be appreciated:
www.mud-club.com > Sales/Wants > Wanted > GROUND ANCHOR (or buying/using advice)
http://www.mud-club.com/forum/index.php/topic,77070.0.html
-
I can do a folding ground anchor, spade type for about £80.00 plus shipping if that is any good. Will get some photos if you would like.
-
Yes please to the photos. If you're going to post them onto this forum, can you do it on this thread, please?:
www.mud-club.com > Sales/Wants > Wanted > GROUND ANCHOR (or buying/using advice)
http://www.mud-club.com/forum/index.php/topic,77070.msg623739.html#msg623739
Despite my best efforts to get the winch working again in time, the vehicle had to go on the ship to the Falklands before the Auto Elec had got it done, so I'm down here now near Stanley with no winch.
I went out for the first jolly the other day and recced out a nice stream to cross in a remote part. It had been driven through before and was only 30cm deep. Couldnt get up the far side. Couldnt get back out again. That horrible sinking feeling. There was no way it was coming out. On my own in the back end of beyond (I know its not wise but not easy to find playmates when youve just arrived somewhere).
Walked out to the nearest track and thumbed a ride back to camp feeling like a right moron.
-
On your own? my advice is buy a winch kit for your Hi-Lift. Hard work but it does the job and will still work if you loose the engine, alternator or batteries.
http://www.mud-club.com/galleries/Range-Rover-Blues/1713-Laning-with-Turtle-and-Little-Landy/
-
Aye, I've learnt my lesson about off-roading on my own!
Later that night I talked a mate into coming back with me in his vehicle. We trundled in from the other side of the stream which involved a huge detour across country and I had a few difficulties trying to even find the vehicle again, which was a few miles down the valley across country in the dark. Also, we had to keep detouring to cross re-entrants (mini valleys) without getting stuck in one of the the little streams at the bottom. We then spent ages trying to get my Rover out with the Snatch rope but I was on the verge of giving up when my mate reversed his machine back just a little bit too far and got his steed stuck in an adjacent boggy bit/trickle stream. 2 vehicles out of 2 bogged in, in the dark. Things were going from bad to worse...
-
I've been neglectful of this Blog, but will start updating it again...
We had the following issue:
Driver’s door & boot may not unlock with key fob alarm blipper
Blip as normal (to turn off alarm) but then use the key as well to open Driver’s door (or go in through passenger door and pull door lock’s ‘stalk’ up fully). If door won’t open when inside vehicle then just pull stalk up. DO NOT LEAVE THE KEYS INSIDE THE VEHICLE! If you do –and try to open the driver’s door –it is likely to lock the whole vehicle with the keys inside! If you forget and close all the doors with the keys inside then just open the boot and then the passenger door + retrieve the keys.
which we tried solving with the replacement lock springs off ebay but it didn't work long term. We eventually cured it by replacing the driver's door lock.
[MPA work]
[FIC work]
[Nigel's work]
[Bury St Edmund's work]
-
Had a rattle from down below -thought it was something major in gearbox but it turned out to just be a rattly debris cover.
Had a terrible rattle from fan belt area so had to get this replaced
-
Fitted a winch and drilled some more holes in the winch bumper's bay to encourage water to drain out [Dec 13 in Norwich]. Also Waxoyled in the bay before fitting it. Winch worked well to pull MG onto blue trailer, and also to pull a rally Sierra rolling shell onto Durham College's trailer in E. London [Jan 14]
-
Seal replaced on one (possibly both) rear quarter lights [2012?]
I changed both diff and also the gearbox/transfer box oils and several leaks were evident. I seem to remember trying various WYNNS or LUCAS additives to thicken up the seals (or the oil). [Spring 14]
We had lots of problems with the car not starting (usually when the wife was driving it and I wasn't around -lots of earache resulted!). I tracked it down to:
a) several duff batteries fitted in parallel (intended to give twice the battery capacity for winching etc., but they were losing charge and dragging the good battery down)
b) The wife using the key to open the car if the blipper didn't work (it is often reluctant). This then meant that the security system was preventing the engine cranking on the key (which we thought for a while is a flat battery). I hasten to add that the security system isn't setting the horn off any more (just making a 'clicking noise' every couple of seconds for a minute or 2, apparently), hence why we didn't realise what was going on for a while.
As a result, I parked it up at the end of Aug 14 when the tax ran out and it has been standing ever since then.
I did the following with the Disco today.
-Fitted another fully charged battery (which has passed my 'load test' and also 'hold charge over a week period' test)
-Pumped up all the tyres to approx 30psi (the front nearside was 13 psi, the others 25-30psi)
-Checked the under bonnet fluids
-Ran the engine for 30mins at idle (and also restarted it during this period)
-Drove it 50m in Hi & Lo (with Diff Lock on and off in both Hi and Lo)
-Checked brakes (they work fine but the pedal feels soft to me)
-
MASTER JOBS LIST
+++++++++++++++++++WORK DONE TO DATE++++++++++++++++++
1. Make interior lights work. N.B. I know that the door sensor on one side is U/S –I have another one here so I will just fit that myself in due course.
2. Test drive. Check for a pull to one side when you come off the power to engine braking (possibly the different sized tyres on the front is a factor?)
3. Consider fabricating a plate to bolt to the towbar to lower the height of it to what it should be (or modify the existing towbar bracket instead if that is easier)
4. Consider replacing the spare wheel carrier on the rear door (if you can get hold of a less rusty one from a scrap Disco, maybe?)
5. Consider fitting a radio with tape or CD player (secondhand would be fine)
6. Refit the black rubber engine cover (over the camshaft cover)
7. Fit the radiator fan plastic cowling (fits above the fan)
8. Fit dashboard strip (stops the front edge of the dashboard peeling up any more
9. Fit rear mirror in centre of windscreen (so that it won’t be knocked when the seats flip forwards
10. Fit new timing belt with new gear, idler,tensioner,crank seal and cam seal,
11. investigate pulling to side on overun, as i said earlier today think its a possible diff problem -a lot of backlash in it too,
12. remove drag link arm and straighten,
13. replace worn track rod end
14. checked steering box free play,
15. fitted your door rubbers,
16. fitted new door switch to n/s and bulb in interior light,
17. investigate interior light inop needs new tube,
18. investigate locking problem needs new lock (common problem suggest new parts)
19. had a look at water ingress,
20. applied rust converter to underbonnet areas
21. replaced brake servo [brake pedal was soft]
22. Battery light often comes on faintly and alternator only providing 12+ volts –diode pack faulty- replacement alternator needed?
23. Fix Sticky handbrake button [handbrake cable replaced]
24. Work out how many inches lift it has had, -if more than 2” it will probably need castor correction bushes (and castor correction arms?)
25. Boot sometimes won’t unlock with the Central Locking (also lock barrel is too stiff to turn with key)
26. Cigarette lighter not working
27. Can anything be done about Spare Wheel fouling on rear bumper when boot is opened?
28. Investigate if it is possible to fit towbar bracket (in boot) without removing fuel tank guard? If tow bar wont fit on with the fuel tank protection grille, can it be done so they are easily interchangeable? N.B. The Tow ball will be fitted at a later date, but please source some bolts for it and bolt them loosely into the holes on the bracket.
29. Source and fit Dashboard Repair Kit to stop Dash curling up by the Windscreen
30. Lubricate bonnet release cable
31. Screw Land Meter (tilt angle gauge) onto the dash (2x self-tapping screws are in JC’s wallet)
32. Repair punctures in 2 wheels (one in boot, the other bolted to rear door). FYI, one of them also had a leaking valve). At least one of the other wheels is successfully using an inner tube (I can provide dimensions and supplier if required).
33. Fit valve caps on all wheels
34 Inspect Propshaft joints for wear or binding (caused by excessive axle articulation) and grease
35. Brakes recently bled but feel spongey (bleed again?)
36. Check Anti-Freeze content
37. Replace Auxiliary drive belt (a new Fan belt is in the boot
38. Fit DisCarNect device (inside vehicle?) to battery terminal (cuts power to vehicle)
39. New front number plate (adhesive type on bonnet preferred so that it won’t get smashed by steep slopes again!)
40. Is Driver’s seatbelt fixable? (Male end won’t click into female end)
41. Hazard lights sometimes come on and wont turn off (although turning engine off and on again sometimes works?)
42. Replace Water pump housing gasket (AKA the 'P Gasket' ) if it is still leaking
43. Hi-Lift jack (in boot) ran out of power to lift vehicle all the way up (started slipping on ratchet) -can it be fixed (perhaps by greasing mech)?
44. Inspect for a weep from split pipe (off-side of Rocker Cover Gasket)
45. Fix Reversing lamps (they work but switch is dicky so you have to hold the gear lever right back to get em to come on) & Rear wiper (blade replaced)
46. Make winch work (cables by battery arent connected). Winch contol ‘pistol grip’ handle is probably somewhere inside vehicle
47. Fit offside swivel housing
++++++++++++++++++++++Jobs still to do
+++++++TOP PRIORITY (ESSENTIAL WORK BEFORE VEHICLE HAS MUCH USE)
Stop the weep of diesel from the injector supply pipe
Investigate if there is a persistent current drain from the battery. If it can't be easily fixed, consider installing an external 'battery cut off' (as used in rally cars)
A Relay makes a continual ‘clicking’ noise when the headlight main beam is selected
If you don't turn the alarm off, the security system doesn't appear to set the horn off any more (it's just making a 'clicking noise' every couple of seconds for a minute or 2, apparently)
Clunk from steering (new parts are in vehicle ready to be fitted)
MoT & tax
Blow up the spare tyre
Tighten down the clamp over the battery
++++++MEDIUM PRIORITY
Source and fit another Rear nearside Seat belt (the female section that bolts to the floor for rear seat belts) & floor bolt
Bolt the rear offside seat (the fold down back section) in properly
Get the alarm (and fob) working properly again
Source a spare alarm/central locking blipper
Passenger door’s stay is U/S so door can open too far?
Bend out the lip at the end of the exhaust
Source and replace any missing rear seatbelt receptacles -and angle them forward (by loosening anchor bolt) so that they don’t get squashed behind seat when it is lowered after passengers have entered rear.
Run winch out (it hasn't been used for a year or so and so this will help it to not seize up)
Oil leak from gearbox? It appears to be continually weeping a bit of oil out. It lost an inch of level over 500 miles or so.
Oil leaks from transfer box and/or diffs?
Get both rear fog lights working (the 1 on the rear offside wasn’t working when Wesbroom Engineering tested the trailer electrics socket in Aug 13)
Investigate clutch mechanism (it tends to lose fluid over a period of time). If you let the fluid level get too low then the pedal flops down (and so only has half travel) -maybe due to sucking air into the system? If a new clutch cylinder is required there is one ready in the box of new parts on the passenger seat
Fix rain leaks into cabin (both front foot wells get water in after rainfall). The best way to spot where it is coming in would probably be to observe from inside the vehicle during rain (or while spraying vehicle with a hose). I have observed slight drips coming down the vertical panel seam in the nearside and offside walls (just in front of the front doors –about 12” above the floor). I also suspect that water has rotted out and now comes through the bulkhead between the drivers feet and the engine bay (and the same on the passenger side). I tried sealing the top of the windscreen with silicone sealant as well, to see if this helped
Remove Offside rock slider and check that newly repaired metal underneath has been properly painted/waxoyld (the rock slider was fixed over new bare metal and I suspect that paint was then bodged over by trying to spray it in the narrow gap)
Check fixing of Wheel arches –they may be loose on both sides (immediately behind rear wheels)
Rustproof anywhere that needs it (the whole underbody was done recently so I’m mainly referring to the engine bay) by steam cleaning/pressure washing/wire-brushing, angle-grinder as required Paint any bare/exposed/rusty areas with Rust Converter (please do not use traditional rubbery underseal ‘cos it flakes off). Consider painting over the top. Then spray Waxoyl (I will supply some special ‘high-temp’ Dinitrol stuff for use in the engine bay).
Anywhere that needs waxoyling on the underneath should be treated as above but the final layer should be Waxoyl Underbody’ thickly sprayed with a powered compressor. I need to confirm if the chassis members have been done (including spraying/injecting inside the with a flexy pipe –normal ‘clear’ Dinitrol wax is better for this as it is thinner). If it’s too thick to spray, try warming tin in a bucket of hot water (or failing this, thin it with a bit of White Spirit). Special attention should be paid to the underside of the bootfloor (this was a new replacement panel in Spring 12 and may not have been properly painted/ waxoyled above the fuel tank after fitment.
See if rear heated window and rear wash/wipe works (and fix as required)
Monitor for wear in front diff? When all wheels are jacked up in the air, one front wheel stops spinning quicker than the other. Also, there is quite a bit of backlash, which points to wear in the front diff.
Fit rear view mirror (and also the 'blind spot' mirrors) if any are not yet fitted)
Replace any perished shock absorber bushes
++++++LOWER PRIORITY
Fit alarm (or alternatively fit it to the van)
Source and fit Rear axle bump stops
Re-angle the Rear window’s spray jet
Fix rear window’s wiper
Repaint stone chips on paint inc corrosion on driver’s floor
Fix catch on glovebox
If necessary, blast out the crud from in radiator and intercooler grilles (preferably by jetting from the ‘engine side’, and not with a jet so powerful that it’ll damage Rad)
Check if the Light system for ‘low brake pad warning’ is working -see p29 of Owner’s Handbook (in cubby hole on RHS of boot?)
Modify new front door rubber seals and rear boot door seal (to keep water out when wading) –use black silicone mastic to tackle any squashed bits/nicks etc.
Consider replacing the rear light clusters where they are chipped
Tidy up bodywork (using rust converter where required before painting white). N.B. the brown patches are already ‘rust converted’ and it may be possible to paint over them
Rust convert and Paint wheels satin or gloss black?
Connect power up to the Land Meter’s cable (tilt gauge on dash) –preferably so that it is only illuminated when the headlights are on, or failing that, when the ignition is on).
Check towbar electrics work (socket in rear bumper).
Consider replacing the front discs’ guard plates (bit crusty and mashed)
Fit a rally-style reversing spotlight (with a switch on the dash) –useful for night recovery.
Fit a split-charge system for 2nd winching battery (2nd battery is identical to existing battery)
Fix stone chip in windscreen
Re-affix the loose rubber trim inside top of rear near-side wheel arch (trim joins wheel arch to body)
Consider fitting the Swivel Housing gaiters
Fit any extra vent pipes/junction boxes so that all necessary areas are vented i.e.:
a. Front diff (this pipe is meant to mate in a junction box with pipes b & c. 1 pipe then goes from the junc box to the snorkel).
b. Gearbox
c. Crankcase
d. Rear diff
e. Fuel tank (I believe that this may have the standard black breather pipe already fitted, going into the rear offside wheel arch).Consider extending or replacing this pipe so that it goes up a similar line/height as the rear diff pipe –or mates via a 3-way junction box. N.B. we can easily source junction boxes with differing numbers of entry points which we can source if necessary.
Fix the interior light above rear seats
Left hand front stereo speaker isn’t working
Source and fit Rear axle bump stops
Replace any perished shock absorber bushes
Tackle corrosion round rear ‘alpine light’ roof windows + rear of vehicle + the ‘reserve battery bay’ (front nearside –the space is currently empty), perhaps with rust-killer paint
Fit tinted window film on all windows
Paint front and rear bumpers again
Passenger door buckled
-
Labour-wise, total on that vehicle is 31.5 hours to date, work complete as follows:-
· Vehicle collected and Audi 200 Delivered
· Full inspection carried out
· OSF radio speaker wiring repaired
· Winch connected, contacts cleaned, cable run out and respooled
· Bent tail pipe straightened
· Both rear brake discs replaced (were pitted and at 8mm – minimum is 12mm)
· Oil drained from both diffs, pinion oil seals replaced and refilled
· OSR wheel bearing retaining washer was missing – s/h replacement fitted
· New 'driven member' gaskets fitted.
· Engine oil changed + filter
· Air filter changed
· New front wiper blades fitted
· 2 s/h rear light clusters fitted to replace cracked and leaking originals
· New drag link ball joint fitted (this was excessively tight and took all morning to remove!)
· New rear wiper blade fitted
· Stripped OSF swivel assembly to replace leaking oil seal. Replaced swivel with s/h item as was excessively pitted. Replaced inner hub oil seal. Supplied s/h set of retaining bolts as incorrect bolts had previously been fitted. Filled with Bearmach 1 shot swivel grease.
· Vehicle cleaned (heavily coated with very firmly affixed moss!)
· S/H brake master cylinder fitted
· 2 new front calipers fitted, along with discs and pads
· Fitted new section of rear loom along with multi plugs (originals had been bodged and soldered into light clusters!). Sorted wiring and restored to correct wiring code.
· Sourced and fitted replacement straps and sockets for l/h and centre rear seat.
· Re-bolted hinge assembly on r/h rear seat.
· Submitted vehicle for MOT in Essex (having been failed spectacularly on non existent issues at Motest) – passed with no advisories!!
++++++++++++++++++
2 S/H rear brake discs 15.00
OSR wheel bearing retaining washers + gaskets 3.00
Oil filter 5.50
Engine Oil 41.68
Front Wiper blades 10.00
Air Filter 8.50
2 * S/H rear light clusters 16.50
Rear Wiper blade 5.20
Inner Hub oil seal 2.00
3 litres ep80/90 13.50
Front diff pinion oil seal 2.00
s/h swivel housing 15.00
1 set s/h swivel housing bolts 5.00
swivel oil seal kit 5.33
swivel grease 11.70
rear diff pinion oil seal 2.00
Rear recovery light 20.00
Split charge relay 17.99
Replacement rear loom section + multi plugs 20.00
s/h brake cylinder + servo 25.00
brake fluid 12.00
1 Pair new front brake calipers (new) 84.94
2 front brake discs (new) 40.00
1 set front brake pads 15.00
1 s/h rear seatbelt sockets + fittings 35.00
MOT 50.00
Net £481.84
VAT £96.37
TOTAL £578.21
-
The new wheel rims do fit but you can't apply full lock on the front wheels (unless spacers are fitted -which are very expensive as they need to embody studs).
They fit OK on the back. The new wheels also need different wheel nuts.
-
Hours spent on vehicle recently:
Fit split charge relay and modify winch wiring,
fault find nsf indicator not working and fit replacement unit,
pressure wash moss/algae from vehicle,
fit spare wheel to rear door,
re-check all levels and pressures/torques following road test.
(5 hours total)
-
Recent work on the Disco:
Mach 5 Wheels Shotblasted
A Frame ball joint boot repair kit
Set front pad anti rattle springs
Axle / gearbox breather pipe
Headlight bulb
Sidelight bulb
-
The plan is to store the car for a while under one of these covers until the college is ready to take it on for major rusty bodywork repairs
Halfords Advanced All Seasons Car Cover 4x4
£69.99
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-accessories/car-covers-tarpaulins/halfords-advanced-all-seasons-car-cover-4x4?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Car+Accessories-_-Car+Covers+and+Tarpaulins-_-337177&_$ja=tsid:60494%7Ccgn:GoogleShopping%7Ckw:337177&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=aqtttwwr&istBid=tzww&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:344535124|agid:24345234124|tid:aud-80976662749:pla-211150319044|crid:97647066964|nw:g|rnd:14062931146472965311|dvc:c|adp:1o1&gclid=CjwKEAiAmY-3BRDh7pjvg46p1iYSJADQ78gNoLe5G8qhP0FYpHWtY9HN822TYb-v_Hru1OzGs8GVvRoCa27w_wcB