AuthorTopic: Urgent Diagnosis help needed  (Read 12348 times)

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Offline Xtremeteam

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« Reply #150 on: June 25, 2005, 22:30:52 »
for the shafts i normaly go in a criss cross pattern like u would wheels but for the diffs etc i just work my way round,same with the prop shaft bolts
Mike
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gords

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« Reply #151 on: June 25, 2005, 22:51:24 »
8-[ Still nervous ... 100Nm? 8-[

Haynes reckons 65Nm for the Halfshaft flange retaining bolts. :?

Offline Xtremeteam

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« Reply #152 on: June 25, 2005, 23:07:41 »
as i said make them tight,ive never torqued any of the diff or prop bolts ever,always done them up tight with either the gun or with a ratchet & never had the diff come slack or the 1/2 shafts,had the prop bolts start to come slack but cured that with a bit o tipex
Mike
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gords

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« Reply #153 on: June 26, 2005, 12:50:24 »
Well, I gave all the nuts another session with the torque wrench - this time I got to 64Nm before I chickened out 8-[  They do seem pretty 'kin tight now though!

Topped up the oil (what an awkward job!) and took it for a short test drive. Stopped, got out, had a look underneath ... and there was the oil dripping out again :evil:

This time, because I hadn't driven so far, the cause/location was easier to see ... yep, the pinion oil seal :cry:

Is the process the same on the 300 as it is on the 200 (I've seen Cliff's workshop article)? Does it need any special tools or can it be done without?

Is the part number for the seal FRC8220?

Now, of course, if anyone local has the special tools they would be most welcome to pop round :wink:  [-o<

Offline Range Rover Blues

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« Reply #154 on: June 26, 2005, 13:32:15 »
Isn't this diff under guarantee?
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
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Offline muddyweb

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« Reply #155 on: June 26, 2005, 13:45:30 »
Hardly worth sending it back for a duff oil seal
Tim Burt
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Offline Thrasher

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« Reply #156 on: June 26, 2005, 13:45:50 »
Gords,

You did put a nice thick layer of hylomar in there didn't you .. don't use it sparingly...!

Take pic of the leak please ;-)
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Offline muddyweb

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« Reply #157 on: June 26, 2005, 13:48:00 »
Quote from: "gords"
Is the process the same on the 300 as it is on the 200 (I've seen Cliff's workshop article)? Does it need any special tools or can it be done without?

Is the part number for the seal FRC8220?


You shouldn't need special tools.

That is one of the part numbers, there is another possible...  is the diff from the same vehicle as yours ?

https://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/shop/en/browse/Discovery+I/3/0/17/60/160
Tim Burt
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Offline Range Rover Blues

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« Reply #158 on: June 26, 2005, 13:48:35 »
Quote from: "muddyweb"
Hardly worth sending it back for a duff oil seal


No but if they have offered a guarantee he should seek some remuneration for the fault.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

gords

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« Reply #159 on: June 26, 2005, 15:57:49 »
Quote from: "Thrasher"
Gords,

You did put a nice thick layer of hylomar in there didn't you .. don't use it sparingly...!

Take pic of the leak please ;-)

Yes!

When I saw the leak the first time, I had driven a few miles at 40+ so the oild was everywhere. This time I wiped as much off as possible and only drove a mile or so. The giveaway, I think, is that the underside of the diff guard (QT) was soaked and I could see oil around the diff/propshaft end - but nothing significant near the diff/axle mounting.

The diff does (supposedly) have 90 days guarantee - so I'll phone them tomorrow and see what they say :wink:

Tim - is the diff from the same vehicle? Well, I asked for a 24 spline 3 bolt diff for a Discovery 300 ... so I would hope it is!?

Offline chuggaman

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« Reply #160 on: June 27, 2005, 17:06:31 »
Quote from: "gords"
Quote from: "gords"
I don't have air tools, but I do have a torque wrench. I must admit - I'm a tad scared of snapping off a stud 8-[

Is it best to circulate around the nuts to build up the tightness gradually? Or is there a particular pattern to follow?

Anyone know? :?


work on the opposites as you would when you tighten wheelnuts
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